After two years and 30K miles I finally killed the factory front shaft (well not dead, just tore rubber boot at t-case). I am looking to get a 1350 front and there seems to be several options, Woods/Reel/Adams. What are you guys running and why? The Adams seems to be the best value, and research seems to show all happy customers but I am open to the other brands.

I run RK 3.5" lift, 37's and a PR44 front, I wheel at least once a month and love technical rocks as well as mud!

 

I'm interested in this subject too, bump

 

Most of the manufacturers use the same high quality parts to construct the drivelines. Spicers ujoints, dom tubing, etc. I have heard complaints about vibrations with all brands and many happy stories as well.

I'd go with Adams based on price or Woods based on reputation.

 

Leaning towards the Adams, anyone have testimonials on the flange adapters, Tom woods site says they dont use adapters.

 

Why a 1350 instead of a 1310? It is stronger than a 1310, but would you rather replace a broken axle shaft or ring/pinion gear instead of replacing a u-joint on a driveshaft? I know a lot of people run a 1350 because they are running near bullet proof D60 axles with big ring/pinion gears, stouter axles shafts, and hemi engines, but I'd rather have my fuse (aka weak link) be a driveshaft than something internal to my axle when stresses get so bad that something has to break. A 1310 will break and be cheaper to fix. A 1350 may not break and you will need to fix something internal to the axle.

I'm running front and rear Coast 1310 driveshafts that use Spicer u-joints with PR44U front and PR60 rear axles. My JKU Rubicon is on an RK 3.5" Long Arm with 37" tires. David at Northridge4x4 recommended the driveshafts. I don't have any experience with the other manufacturers.

 

I totally agree. If your running stock axles stick with 1310 ds

 

Agree, make the weak point something easy to get at and fix...1310. While spending the money I would go with a Woods full double cardan joint without flange adapters. Why, because DS with flange adapter are shorter from U joint to joint, thus more angle. Replacing the flange with a Yoke gives you a longer drive shaft and less angle at each joint.

 

I just replaced front and rear this past weekend with Adams. Shafts are solid and very impressed with the quality. I have friends that run Tom woods and coast and they both agree that Adams was a better route. I say Adams!

 

Thanks for the replies, I never really thought of it that way, easier to fix a I joint then internals. I was going on recommendations from dynatrac and others that say 1310 is too weak for 37's and lockers. I am planning on going to 38 or 40 next and just thought the 1350 was the better option.

 

Im running j.e. reel 1350 shafts front and rear on 37's. I've read through the post about 1310 vs 1350 and one reputable vendor summed it up as why build you rig to have a week link at all so i chose 1350. For those of you that wheel with too much skinny pedal then maybe you want to go 1310.