So this summer I plan on 37" tires. I'm regearing to 4.56 and getting lockers. I want to know what some members think I need to do to the stock axles ( Dana 30 front/D44 rear). to be able to run 37's without breaking shit every time out on the trails.

 

Oh man this is a can of worms question. Your going to get a completely divided response. Some ppl have run 37's on their D30 with no prob and some have blown their d44s on 33's.

 

I would C-gusset and leave the D30 alone other than that. Then I would start saving for a PR44 cause the D30 will break at some point.

 

Just as too advanced said, you'll get a divided response. If you want to ensure no problems, gusset the D30, lift at least 3.5" (limits articulation or rubbing will occur), with 3.5" or higher, you'll need to reconsider your drive shaft, will want upper and lower CA's. I would suggest higher gears beyond 4:56. I have 35's with 4:10 and would still jump up a ratio or two. This also depends if you're running a 3.8, 3.6 or V8. 3.8? Go with 5:13. 3.6? 4:56 will be OK. I know some guys who even run 4:10 with their hemi swaps.

And, much of this depends on where you live, the type of wheeling you do, etc. heavier use? Go heavier in the build. A general rule to follow. Or, you can take your chances and use any breakage as a reason to upgrade.

 

I wouldn't put money into the D30. Keep an eye out for a Rubi axle. This can be picked up for about the same cost as gears and a locker on your 30. You may get lucky and find one with the gears you already want. Add a truss and gussets. Depending on your wheeling style the stock shafts may still be short lived.

 

Everyone has different experiences based on too many factors to clearly articulate "what is needed". There are people who run a Dana 30 with 40's and have been doing it for years and there are people who have broken a built 60 on 35's. There is no clear answer. My opinion is that running a 30 even properly built is always going to be a bit of a gamble but one you may be perfectly fine with making. I would never spend money on a PR44. In my opinion that is the greatest joke on the jeeping community. If you want a 44 that will sufficiently handle 37's buy a take off rubi and build it. Back to your original question though. The answer is based on your wallet. First off I can not recommend 4.56 gears. I have 4.88's on a 2013 and 37's and I think that's the sweet spot for a daily driver and if anything I would go to 5.13's if I had to choose between those and 4.56's. Next have you C's welded. Don't waste money on new knuckles for a 30 either. While the diffs are open for gears throw ten factory axles in the rear RCV's up front and if you still have money do your ball joints. Put on some heavy duty diff covers. If you can afford it or you can weld skip the axles sleeves and do Artec trusses front and rear. Replace at least your front drive shaft. Upgrade all your steering components add a sector shaft brace and get a quality 2.5 to 3.5 suspension with some flat fenders. Now how much of the list you do and the order you do it in is up to you but you will save time and money doing all the gears axles ball joints and diff covers at once.

Many will tell you to go 60's but really there are far far more people running 37's on a 30 than there are on 60's. 60 is obviously stronger and that would be the next step up but it's really not needed. Seriously. If you have money to burn by all means get some Dana 80's but I'm guessing you wouldn't be asking about your 30 if you did. So the easy answer is to say upgrade everything. The real answer is based solely on your wallet.

 

I am going to continue to look for a take off rubi axle. As that would be more ideal. But just was wondering if I were to beef up the stock D30 what would be needed. I already have 2.5" suspension lift with upper/lower control arms and flat fenders.

 

Your profile shows a 2011, 3.8, 6-spd, 2-door? Plenty of gearing threads for opinions, but since you mentioned gears, people need to know what you have.

Here is a decent D30 build vs buy comparison. Fill it in with the components you want and your local labor prices, and see what you see. To many people, an upgrade to an aftermarket d44/d60 makes more sense.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/

For a rubi upgrade, use the same comparison. What you can buy it for, and then what all you have to put into it. Again, this can easily put you in the ballpark of just going aftermarket.

Also of note is that there is an ebay seller building rubi axles for under 2k, possibly with your choice of gears. If you are paying anywhere close to retail, you may as well go to a PR/Tera/G2. If you can get this for under 2k with your gears of choice, it may be a great deal. Then just add the gussets/sleeves/truss/whatever you had decided on.

 

yeah 2011 2 door. 3.8.

 

a built axle with gearing of my choice under 2k is interesting for sure I'll have to look into it.