JK: 4 door automatic. I'm ready to install the Rock Hard Oil Pan skid and have a couple of basic questions for those who have already done this installation. I do not have the other skid plates. Just the oil pan skid. I've tried the search and can not find enough detail. And, we all know how good the RH instructions are

1) Instructions say "if present, remove front cross member and discard". I take it this is the cross member that is also, my somewhat flimsy, auto tranny skid. Somewhere I thought I saw where someone simply attached the RH skid over the top and did not remove this??? Obviously, I do need to remove the bolts. But, do I need to remove the stock Auto skid/cross member for the installation? Looks like to remove this I have to unbolt my Shrockworks rock rails too

2) Stock Transfer case skid which I intend to keep. Do I sandwich and bolt the RH skid in between the Tcase skid? Due to the "lips" on the Tcase skid I can not see bolting the RH skid on top. Am I missing something?

 

My RH OP and T-Case skids should be here any day. Would be nice to know the secrets

 

I can't speak for the auto, I have a six speed. However, I would imagine that you'll need to take the auto skid off in order to install this skid plate.

As for the transfer case skid, loosen it and sandwich the RH skid between the crossmember and the transfercase skid.

Also, I am using the cat skid that comes with the tranny/op skid with my Schrockworks rails. I have it bolted on the outside of the rails and it works just fine.

Hope that helps.

 

Yes, the crossmember they refer to is the factory auto tranny skid. Just remove and discard this piece. On mine, I indeed sandwhiched the RH skid between the factory t-case skid and the frame. I couldn't get the bolts and slider washers they provided to fit with the lip on the factory t-case skid, so I reused the factory bolts for those 2 and saved the other 2 for when the budget allows me to upgrade to the RH t-case skid, then I'll put them in. You'll be re-using the one mount point on the frame for the converter skid, the one on the driver's side.

For the second poster, the instructions say if you have both Rock Hard skid, then you install it the other way. That is put the transfer case skid between the oil pan skid and frame, so that you give a nice surface to slide on if need be.

Final piece of advice...don't forget to retighten the factory t-case skid. You have to loosen the 2 back bolts up to get it to drop and slide in the RH skid. I put on my skid and spent the first few miles trying to figure out the annoying rattle that started. Closer inspection says...I forgot to tighten the rear t-case skid bolts. Amazingly it went away after I tightened them back up.

 

Thank-you. This is exactly what I was considering. Sandwiching the RH skid under the Tcase skid and re-using the bolts.

As for the first part of my question, I guess I was dreading taking out the bolts for my Shrockworks rock rails to remove the cross member. Getting those bolts reattached is going to be a bear. From the look of things, it will take me longer to remove the front cross member than it will to install the RH skid.....Oh well...

 

I am installing the RH OP skid this weekend, and I too appreciate the advice. Sure is a lot easier to depend on somebody else's experience rather than to create your own by goofing it up a couple times Those small, blurry pictures that they put on the directions sure are useless.

 

For those of you who installed only the front Rock Hard skid plate, are there any clearance issues with the exhaust? The cross-over hangs slightly lower than the transmission cross member. Can't tell by write-ups or pictures how the skid clears the pipe.

 

I noticed a vibration from the crossover pipe hitting the Rock Hard skid. To get rid of it I got some exhaust wrap and put a couple wraps on the crossover pipe and all is well now

 

I didnt have any issues, but my exhaust crossover is above my crossmember . If your exhaust hangs lower, you have to bend the exhaust hanger to move the pipe up and out of the way. The hanger is supposed to be fairly easy to bend if you heat it up first.

 

I had the same vibe and took the skid off before I deployed. Bending the exhaust hanger is the fix for the corner that makes contact.

I did a write up not too long ago. Search my name and it should pop up.