Originally Posted by gt3073b

It sounds like "bump steer" which is caused by the drag link and track bar being out of parallel. When you lift a vehicle, the track bar and drag link angles increase, but since the drag link is shorter, it changes more. When you hit a bump, the axle moves up and toward the passenger side because the track bar has to swing an arc. The drag link pivots at the pitman arm which is closer to the center line of the vehicle and so the arc is different, causing the wheels to turn to make up the difference. The steering wheel doesn't move much (power steering and stabilizer dampen out most of the motion) but the wheels turn, turning the vehicle a bit. The driver usually corrects a bit in the opposite direction but then the suspension begins to rebound causing the wheels to return to their original position. But since the driver has turned the wheel to compensate, he has to turn it back to get the wheels pointing straight again. If you don't have superhuman reaction time, there is a bit of lag between suspension movement and steering compenstation which can cause the problem to get worse by trying to steer through it. A steering stabilizer will NOT help this one bit!

The cheap band-aid if the problem is minor is to hold the steering wheel lightly so it slightly moves during the bump steer. If the steering wheel absorbs some of the deflection, the tires will move less. This will fix only the TINIEST amount of bumpsteer.

The real fix is to use a trackbar relocation bracket and/or a drop pitman arm and/or a high-steer kit to get the drag link and track bar parallel, and (ideally) horizontal.

The trackbar relocation bracket can either raise the axle end or lower the frame end. Raising the axle end raises the roll center and helps reduce body roll. If you go this route, be sure to use a good quality weld-on kit. Do a search. Many bolt-ons have become weld-ons after they break off of the axle. Frame side brackets lower the frame side of the bar, but they lower the roll center making the vehicle feel a bit more tippy since the center of gravity pivots about the roll center. A higher roll center is a good thing in this case.

A drop pitman arm replaces the stock pitman arm and has more of a bend in it lowering the steering box end of the drag link. The pros are that it is a cheap and easy install and there are no interference issues. The cons are that you now have a longer moment trying to break you sector shaft in the steering box.

The high steer kit helps fix the drag link angle from the steering knuckle end instead of the pitman arm end. The pros of this are better geometry with less steering box stress. The only real downside to this is that you have to cram more steering components in right at the top of the wheel. I wonder if we will start to see aftermarket forged knuckles for JKs to allow better high steer setups?

Anyway, I'm running both the axle side trackbar bracket and drop pitman arm from Currie. The arms are pretty darn close to parallel and I have no problem eating a burger and driving with my knee at 80mph (hypothetically, of course!). My friend did a lift with just coils and lower arms and his bump steer is scary. Bad bump = lane change. I'd rather have a high steer setup than the pitman arm but I haven't had any failures so I'm fine with what I have. Their track bar bracket is top notch.

Originally Posted by JK-Q8

and also do all you guys with the rc quick disconnects noticed that they are very noisy on bumps and speed bumps or is it only my jeep?

Originally Posted by wayoflife

i don't know, with just a 2.5" BB, i really doubt that what you are experiencing is bump steer and i certainly wouldn't install a track bar relocation bracket and dropped pitman arm or draglink flip kit. all the ones available on the market today are made for lifts of 4" or more and adding them would most likely make things worse for you.

having said that, have you checked your ball joints? i know there are a lot of people on here that have been burning through theirs in a hurry and that could be your problem as well.

Originally Posted by wayoflife

do you mean that they are clicking and/or squeaking? if so, this is typical. you might try and add a washer to the link ends to make the fit tighter and that should help out some.

Originally Posted by jayrav

Changing the steering geometry isn't necessary for the lift you have. High steer kits, drop pitmans and drop trackbar brackets are usually used for lifts of 4" and up.

What you are describing is death wobble under the control of your SS until it blows out then you will feel the full blunt of the DW. Check your front trackbar torque specs, alignment(especially toe in) and maybe a road force balancing of the wheels.

Hope this helps.

Good luck!