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Front drive shaft!!

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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:32 PM
  #21  
g Rock's Avatar
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From: TEMECULA CALIF
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Originally Posted by Mountainneer
I have both the front and rear drive shafts for a jk. Both are in excellent condition. Both have only been used on the street. PM if interested.
Just got back from truck haven and somehow I ripped my boot off the front of my drive shaft. It's an 07 jku . What year is your jeep that the front drive shaft came out of and how much do you want. I have 90+ thousand on mine, not sure which route . New or used.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #22  
bbrown626's Avatar
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From: Murrieta, CA
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I have front and rear shafts from an '11 2-door if interested.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #23  
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From: Hudson, FL
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My boot ripped at the transfer case side (cv?). Not enough dough to fix it just yet, is it ok to just remove the shaft completely for a bit?
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 04:34 PM
  #24  
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From: El Cajon, CA
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Originally Posted by MyJeepAteMyWallet
My boot ripped at the transfer case side (cv?). Not enough dough to fix it just yet, is it ok to just remove the shaft completely for a bit?
Yes, u can remove the driveshaft
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #25  
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From: Austin, TX
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I removed my front drive shaft long ago on my 13, actually I never used the 4wd yet.
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #26  
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From: Bellmawr, NJ
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Originally Posted by Yellowfin
I've been driving my rig without that boot for over two years without issue (knock on wood). Replace it when it breaks.
Ur the second person that I've heard say that..... How? Does urs click? Mine has the boot and NO tears but mine clicks. Wtf:confused:

Sent from my obama monitoring device
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 05:56 AM
  #27  
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From: Tampa/Lutz, FL
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I think it is important to point out that the OEM driveshaft has two potential break points that allow you some time before you have to replace it. The flexible boot on the middle part of the shaft can be removed if it is hitting something and you can probably get away with running it like that for several months to years from what I have seen here with regular inspection and spot greasing. The boot that is near the transfer case or the CV boot is the one that runs a little more risk the longer you let it go and can seize up if the bearings dry out and damage your transfer case which will cost a lot more than a replacement drive shaft. I ran with a torn CV boot for almost 4 months with regular inspection and greasing before I found another drive shaft but I never noticed any clicking so maybe I just got lucky. I would suggest you find an OEM replacement if you are on a budget and changing it takes less than an hour and is straight forward.

This is what mine looked like when I replaced it..
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