So ... I'm fairly certain that my ABS module is bad. And before replacing it, I thought maybe to attempt a repair. I've seen a couple videos and write ups of owners breaking into the module and finding bad solder, fixing those solder points, and voila! ABS works again. Since it is bad, what have I got to lose? Save me if I'm on thin ice here...

 

My guess is you’re not likely to find a bad solder but more likely to find a fried resistor or capacitor.... and that’s if you’re lucky. Most times with little circuit boards, if they’re not working you may have lost transistors inside a chip or a bad capacitor may not be visibly damaged on the outside.

However, if you’re sure your module is bad then you have nothing to lose but time. If you’re not familiar with micro soldering, do a little YouTube learning and maybe practice. Soldering those tiny little 1/16” spots by hand is pretty tricky.

 

My abs and wheel sensor issue was fixed by simply disconnecting the abs sensor, spraying the connector with deoxit, then reconnecting.

 

I'm getting a C2200 code, and my wheel sensors are testing OK.

 

So ... none of the connector pins were soldered to the board! The pins simply pushed through a tiny solder-rimmed hole. I guess the manufacturer just relied on hope. I soldered every pin, and lo and behold my ECU recognizes a new module on the CAN bus, and the C2200 code is gone. Now I need to have the ABS programmed.

I am going to try using my Superchips TD2 to return the ECM to stock settings. Maybe that'll find and update the ABS module and keep me from having to visit the dealer ...

 

Wow! I’m shocked that the pins weren’t soldered. Kinda makes me wonder about the rest of the abs boards out there. Are mine soldered or just pressed in? Haha.

 

I know, right! I should have taken photos. No wonder that these things die so soon and easy.

What do y'all think the chances are of the Superchip TD2 unit being able to recognize and enable the ABS module by switching back to the "stock" program?

Right now, the ABS light flashes and dings about every two seconds consistently - sitting still and driving. No other warning lights on the dash, and the only applicable code indicated is "U1148: additional can-c ecu detected." The TD2 also indicates that the ABS module does not support the ECU Serial Number. To me, that's fairly conclusive evidence that 1) the ABS module is functioning, and 2) it needs to be programmed.

 

AFAIK Mopar are the only ones who can initiate the ABS module. Like a small module with a fat lawyer attached to it.