Air Filter Help
Just go to the dealer get one and be done with it.
K&N overpriced piece of shit IMO. Alot of HYPE, and I'll agree it is good for track cars and dragstrips, but keep in mind they normally break the engines down and clean and replace parts after races. More air flow = less filtering.
Pull your TB and check the plenum directly below after about 3000 miles with the stock filter. Then switch to the K&N. After about 1000 miles pull the TB and check the plenum again, you will see what I mean.
K&N overpriced piece of shit IMO. Alot of HYPE, and I'll agree it is good for track cars and dragstrips, but keep in mind they normally break the engines down and clean and replace parts after races. More air flow = less filtering.
Pull your TB and check the plenum directly below after about 3000 miles with the stock filter. Then switch to the K&N. After about 1000 miles pull the TB and check the plenum again, you will see what I mean.
First of all: more flow does not always mean less filtering.
Second: K&N is not a waste of money. In the end, you pay less because you don't have to replace it, etc.
Third: who cares if you see more crap in the plenum? If it doesn't cause problems or other costs, then in the end the K&N is still worthwhile.
I need to change my air filter and the local auto parts store does not have any in stock. They can order one for me, but if i'm going to wait for them to get it in i might as well see if i can find it cheaper online. Can anyone point me to a web site where I can order a replacement filter cheap. I do not want to go the CAI route.
I went the K&N route and am satisfied overall. This is the first one I've used. Just cleaned and re-oiled it with the recharge kit. When you do it (if you follow the directions) it takes quite a while to dry completely, then some more time for the oil to soak in.
EDIT> Opps I didn't see the second page.
Originally Posted by noot
Third: who cares if you see more crap in the plenum?
Last edited by gold knight; Jun 19, 2008 at 01:51 PM.
I would go to the dealer and get a replacement stock filter if you are keeping the stock airbox. I had to do this to for my first filter change (nothing except K&N for the JK at the auto parts stores) and it was less than $20 at the dealer.
Question:
If it's true that the K&N flows more air, won't a modern electronic controlled computer read this additional air intake and send more fuel to compensate to acheive the correct gas/air mixture? Hence, LESS gas mileage.
Please clarify if you could.
This is why I haven't bought onto the whole cold air intake scheme.
If it's true that the K&N flows more air, won't a modern electronic controlled computer read this additional air intake and send more fuel to compensate to acheive the correct gas/air mixture? Hence, LESS gas mileage.
Please clarify if you could.
This is why I haven't bought onto the whole cold air intake scheme.
Not to start up this whole argument again, but...
First of all: more flow does not always mean less filtering.
Second: K&N is not a waste of money. In the end, you pay less because you don't have to replace it, etc.
Third: who cares if you see more crap in the plenum? If it doesn't cause problems or other costs, then in the end the K&N is still worthwhile.
First of all: more flow does not always mean less filtering.
Second: K&N is not a waste of money. In the end, you pay less because you don't have to replace it, etc.
Third: who cares if you see more crap in the plenum? If it doesn't cause problems or other costs, then in the end the K&N is still worthwhile.
Of course it does. As a matter of fact all labs that have done tests on air filter eliments have concluded, for a given size, "a filter's ability to trap dust is inversely proportional to its flow rate".
What that means is simply the better the flow rate of the filter the less it traps dust .
Here is a link to AutoBlog:
http://www.autoblog.com/2005/09/07/h...-filters-work/
This is but one test done by an independant lab using the ISO 5011 procedure.
Don't take my word. Like I said, check your TB plenum.
I did and was amased what I saw, after cleaning out my intake plenum as best I could, I went back to a paper eliment on my 94XJ. Unless the JK is somehow different from the XJ in how it gets air into the TB and past, the results will be the same.
I have also recently abandoned the use of reuseable filters. Just not worth the hassle of cleaning and re-oling combined with what I saw inside my MINI's intake after switching back to a stock filter setup.
If you do use the K&N or others, make sure not to use too much oil as the oil vapors also add deposits. I had a friend who ruined his VW's Mass Air Flow sensor with too much oil on the filter. Cost him about $500 to replace since the part could not be cleaned and still work correctly.
If you do use the K&N or others, make sure not to use too much oil as the oil vapors also add deposits. I had a friend who ruined his VW's Mass Air Flow sensor with too much oil on the filter. Cost him about $500 to replace since the part could not be cleaned and still work correctly.
i've been running an Airaid intake for about 30,000km now,did get improvement in low end torque which really helped in 5th+6th hence slight improvement in fuel economy and big improvement in drivability,I would not want to go back to stock airbox.I use the pre-filters(always carry a spare)when i do get in the dirt and dust i change pre filter my main filter is staying very very clean,also the pre filter helps prevent moisture from entering main filter.as for what enters the intake most people rush the cleaning,do not let fully dry and tend to over oil which will pull oil thru intake and oil up air handling sensors which have little tolerance to contamination.having a spare filter means always having a properly cleaned and oiled filter on hand when needed.also shortly after changing "oil type" filter not a bad idea to check any sensors down line and CAREFULLY clean with contact cleaner and reinstall if appear oily.
Last edited by rickl; Jun 20, 2008 at 08:50 AM.



