Thanks for the tip. May look at that next.

I just finished up with the 3 steps I mentioned above. Removing the connector from the abs module ended up being a bigger task than anticipated. I have the Mopar BBK where the larger master cylinder with larger brake fluid reservoir sit right up behind that connector. I had to remove the brake fluid reservoir off the MC to be able to remove and reconnect the connector. Terminals looked pretty clean but sprayed them with some terminal cleaner anyways.

This time when I bled the driver front brake, with some persistence and engine running, I was able to get it to bleed properly and seemed to have gotten the air out. Still need to take it for a test drive, to confirm if brakes are working properly or not but at least things are looking better so far. Crossing my fingers while waiting for wife to move her car so I can go for the test drive.

 

M15 is for the steering angle sensor. The other 3 fuses you refer to are for ABS. Hopefully it is good to go.

 

Unfortunately after taking the test drive, I'm still in the same situation. It feels like my driver's front caliper is not engaging. Which is odd because I bled it using the push on the brake pedal method and fluid definitely came out of the bleeder valve from that caliper. Still no dash lights indicating there's a problem.

Going to pull that wheel and caliper off to see if I can see if that caliper is actually moving when pressing on the brake.

 

Still trying to figure this out. I really wish at this point I understood how ABS works.

Here's what I'm seeing after some diagnosis.
1. With Driver/Front caliper connected but removed from rotar.
- caliper pistons extend out when pushing on the brake pedal (good)
- After pistons of caliper were pushed out from step above, I put a C-clamp on each of the pistons (I have 2 for Mopar BBK). I could not push the pistons back in. It was like there was major restriction preventing the fluid from going back towards the Master Cylinder.
- I ended up opening the bleeder valve on the caliper to be able to push those caliper pistons back in.

2. I then completely removed the Driver/Front Caliper from the brake hose connection. (Driver/Front Brake hose end just hanging down with a pan to catch brake fluid under it, all other brakes connected normally).
- With engine turned off, I press on brake pedal. Pedal gets solid after 2nd push to the floor, where I can no longer press the pedal down using 2 feet, pressing as hard as I can on the pedal with my full body weight. Some fluid came out from end of brake hose, but I really expected fluid would just freely flow through the hose with no caliper attached. My thought for the reason it got solid after 2 presses is because the passenger side brake caliper must have extended and reached the position where it was fully locked up against the rotor.
- With engine turned on, I press on brake pedal. I'm able to press the pedal to the floor 8 times (more was possible). Pedal never gets fully solid but is kind of firm and I was able to push more brake fluid out of the open brake hose. My thought is that with the engine running, I'm now getting additional leverage from the brake booster and that may be the reason I'm able to push the pedal more times, thus force more fluid through the hose.

There definitely feels like there's some type of restriction in the front driver side brake lines. Without not understanding how ABS works, my guess would be that the ABS module is engaged like as if it was pressing on the brake and causing a fluid flow restriction in that brake line. What else could cause my brake pedal to become so firm without the engine running, that I'm unable to press the brake pedal down when there should be no restrictions in that line without the caliper attached to the end of the hose?

But Why hasn't my ABS dash lights came on if my ABS is partially engaged for the driver side brake and restricting fluid flow?

Anybody have any ideas? Really unsure where to go from here.

 

Well, I found a pretty good video which explains how the ABS module works. Based on this, I would say one of those selenoids feeding the driver front brake like is stuck.

Wondering if that means if I should replace the ABS module, or that complete assembly with the motor?

 

Did you replace the brake hose for the front calipers? Sounds like the d/s hose is blocked.

 

I think your way over thinking this. Change the hose. Simple and cheap enough to try. I have had this happen on several different vehicles.

 

Alright, thanks that sounds promising. Before I order the brake hose which is $65.....one more thought.
Since I currently have the caliper removed and if I remove that brake hose from the brake line since I'll have to do that to replace it anyway. Brake fluid should flow pretty easily out of the brake line when I press on the brake pedal right? Unlike what I'm seeing now of what I did in step 2 of diagnosis.
My thought is that is a simple step to confirm if the brake hose is clogged or not.

The whole Code that popped up one time is throwing me off but now thinking if dirt was in that line, maybe that is what caused the code to pop up when the dirt passed through the ABS module.
My brake fluid reservoir was pretty dirty, and I flushed that out. So it's making more sense that the brake hose could have a clog in it due to dirt being in the fluid. Fluid is currently running clean through the system after bleeding it so many times.

 

Yes the fluid should flow freely. Don't know where your buying parts but that hose is less than $20 shipped. Also it's highly doubtful that dirt is clogging the line. Those hoses breakdown on the inside and cause the restriction. When I have had this problem, I have never been able to tell that there was anything wrong with the hose by looking at it. It was a process of alimination and a mechanic friend telling me about the hoses breaking down the first time I dealt with this. So now when I have a break sticking and caliber is free I change the hose. Has always fixed it. If the car has any age to it and it's the caliber that needs replaced I always change hose as well. Hope this helps and good luck.

 

I'm running the Mopar BBK which comes with dual caliper front pistons and larger diameter Mopar replacement hoses, etc. Unfortunately, I'm currently only finding replacements in the $60-$65 range. It's Mopar P/N: 68184809AC for the driver front hose. I could save a few bucks going with a Crown equivalent replacement but think I rather avoid that route and stick with the Mopar. Anything else aftermarket won't fit quite right at the caliper connection side.