Man you nailed it! Removed that hose and fluid started dripping out of the brake line, pushed on the pedal and fluid flowed freely.

Thank you to you and your mechanic friend! I would have never guessed that. The brake hose looks fine as you said. You likely saved me close to $700 for the ABS module replacement. Ordered the part from local dealership, I was able to talk them into giving me their online price of $56. However, won't be in for about a week. So hopefully this fixes the problem which I'm expecting it will.

 

I got the new brake hose in on Friday and was excited to get this all back together to see if I finally had working brakes again but right now nothing is going right for me. The end on the brake tube line which attaches to the hose was kind of seized up. I tried to lubricate it and try to get it loosened up by wiggling it around, but the damn brake line split open in the process. It's the brake line which connects from the ABS module to the driver side front brake hose.

The bright side?....if one of the brake lines were going to split, the best one to do it would be the front driver side, since it's the shortest closest to the abs module. Any of the others would be a hell of a job to replace.

Now waiting on one of these to arrive so I can finally put this back together.
Mopar P/N: 52129117AD

 

Well friends, I'm still having problems and I'm bewildered at trying to figure out the cause.

The current symptoms are that my brake pedal is soft. If I pump the brakes, after 3-4 pumps it will become solid but will gradually become soft again.

Suspecting the Master cylinder I ended up trying to diagnose it.
- I plugged both ports on the MC and pedal was hard and remained hard.
- I got a MC bench bleeder kit, and confirmed fluid is freely flowing out of each port.
- I bled the MC on the vehicle with the kit by pressing the brake pedal at least 300 times. Still same problem existed.
- I pulled the MC off, bench bled it in a vise, then confirmed no leaks from the MC after letting it sit in the vise and further bleeding it over the course of a week.
- 99% certain at this point, the MC is ok.

My next suspicion was that ABS module may have air in it and needs to be bled.
- Learned that J-scan recently added an ABS bleed function to it, so tried that out. (twice)
- Instructions say prior to performing ABS bleed, to perform a regular brake system bleed, which I did.
- Followed steps provided by J-Scan to bleed the ABS pump. Observed during that process that ABS pump is being activated by J-scan and pumping fluid through the system when activated by Jscan.
- After completing Jscan ABS bleed procedure, I then again performed a regular brake system bleed.
End results after all that, the symptoms are the same. Pedal pumps up solid after 3-4 pumps, then gradually goes soft within 1 minute after pumping brakes.

I've never performed an ABS bleed, the OBD Jscan procedure is definitely a 2 person job since it requires someone to hold the brake pedal down while the bleeder valves on the calipers are opened and closed. Had my wife, assist me.
The things I'm uncertain about during this procedure, Jscan instructs first to hold down brake pedal and then open "right front" bleeder valve, then later closing it. Followed by the same procedure on the "right rear". My uncertainty is what is their definition of "Right front" and "Right rear". I made the assumption that Right front=Driver's side front, and Right rear therefore=Driver's side rear. So there's the possibility my assumptions are incorrect, although I did observe fluid being pumped out of the driver front/rear when following the procedure. The thing I found odd is that the procedure did not include performing the same steps on the opposite side calipers. So I guess that will be my next steps of performing the Jscan ABS bleed procedure but do it on the opposite side, followed by doing another standard brake bleed.

As some bonus information, it looks like Jscan may have the ability to reprogram the ABS module with my VIN if I need to replace the ABS module instead of having to go to a dealer.

Jscan also has a function which says "Initialize ABS module". I'm unsure what this function does and therefore didn't try it since I was concerned it may wipe out my ABS programmed VIN and other information. Hoping there's a Jscan manual online which better describes what this function actually does.

Any thoughts? I'm totally confused at this point of what to do next aside from trying the Jscan ABS bleed on the opposite side.

 

I just contacted Jscan through their Facebook page. Got a confirmation, that I performed the bleed procedure on the wrong side of the vehicle. "Right Front"= Passenger's Front.
They also confirmed performing the ABS bleed on one side of the vehicle is the designed intended behavior but did comment most do find that odd.

 

I'm feeling beatin, battered, and bruised at this point.
Performed the ABS bleed again, this time on the correct side, followed by another brake line bleed.

Uncertain if there was any change. My pedal is still going soft, It takes me 2-3 pumps to get it solid. I could have swore it took me 4-5 pumps of the brake to get the pedal solid before. So maybe I'm making progress, or it could be my imagination is getting the best of me and my hopes are leading me to believe I'm making progress.

With that in mind, I'm going to do the ABS bleed again and hope I continue to see progress (made up progress or not)

 

I seem to be slowly but surely making progress. This has turned into a rinse, wipe, repeat scenario of perform ABS bleed with Jscan, followed by a brake line bleed. Been doing this with the assistance of my wife where we're getting to be like a formula 500 pit crew.

I'm now at the point where my brake pedal will go half way to the floor and then becomes solid and then fully firm on the 2nd pump. I think 1 or 2 more of these ABS bleed and line bleed procedures may finally get me back to having good working brakes again.

 

Hey everyone! It's been awhile but wanted to let everyone know I finally got this fixed after enough ABS module bleeds using J-Scan.

Through trial and error, I learned quite a bit along the way of the best way to perform an ABS module bleed with J-scan to get the most air out as possible of your ABS module and the rest of the brake system for that matter. The secret is to NOT follow the steps exactly as they're displayed in J-Scan. When you do that, you will get very little air out of your system. In the steps where it tells you to, "Now open your Right/Front bleeder valve" and "Right/Rear" when bleeding the rear....DON'T!

Instead, leave it closed and let the procedure continue. J-Scan will pump the brakes 4-5 times. On the fronts let it pump at least one time with the bleeder closed. This will cause the system to become pressurized, force some air out of the module, and push that air closer to the bleeder screw. When it starts the 2nd module pump, then right after it starts crack that bleeder screw open. For the rear, let it pump at least 2 times with the valve closed, then during the 3rd pump cycle crack open that bleeder value. After I started doing it this way, I got way more air out of my brake system in one bleed cycle than I did in the prior 20 attempts following the instructions as described in the J-scan app.

Another tip. J-scan tells you that you only need to perform the ABS bleed procedure on the right side (passenger side) wheels. I say to heck with that advise as well. Run the ABS bleed 2 consecutive times instead, starting with the driver side wheels followed by another ABS bleed with J-scan on the passenger side wheels. Doing it this way instead will get air out of the lines in both the driver side and passenger side brake lines.

Another final tip. J-scan tells you that you need to do a regular brake line bleed prior and after performing the ABS Bleed. The logic behind this kind of makes sense because you are pushing air out of the module and therefore that air is now being pushed into the brake lines beyond the module. I say to heck with that as well. Instead, continuously run the ABS bleed procedure starting on the driver's side and then to the passenger side, and then back to the driver side, etc until you finally reach a point where you notice absolutely no air coming out during those bleed procedures. Even when you reach that point of no air coming out while performing the ABS bleed, I say take it for a drive, then come back and run the ABS bleed procedure on both sides one more time to be double certain you got all the air out.

I probably bled my brake lines 40 times, and performed the ABS bleed at least 20 times before I started doing it the way I just outlined. The last 6 times of performing just the ABS bleed as I outlined is what finally got the most air out of my system and got my brakes back to having a solid firm pedal and working great again.

I'm going to work on a more detailed write-up but just wanted to include these tip details for future reference in this thread. It feels great to finally have my brakes back to working good after spending so much time/effort on this and I didn't have to throw any expensive part replacements at it to finally get them that way.

I was tempted multiple times and convinced I needed to either replace my Master cyclinder or my ABS module. Neither ended up needing to be replaced. I just had to figure out the best way to get that air that was trapped in the ABS module out.

 

Very nice work, Rednroll. Looking forward to reading your write-up.

 

Im having the same C2200 code issue in my 2013 Sahara JKU.

After feeling an soft brake pedal occasionally so I decide to replace brake fluid after this few days later the dash light came on and the C2200 came on.

I had have already test all speed sensor and are working properly.

 

Where is this option on the jscam app?