16FW

I knew the Northridge part, but I didn't see the build assist section until after I posted the link question. The trouble is, they don't seem to offer anything 'stock". I have 4:10 gears, and they don't show them. I also don't know which lockers I have. i know they aren't ARB, but that is all I know.

BoraBora

You have E-lockers stock in your Rubicon. Very similar to the Eaton E-lockers, they actually power/function the same. So you could just select the Eaton option.

As for gears, go ahead and give Northridge a call. I'm sure they have 4.10's they'd throw in there for you. They're probably just not getting enough requests to offer it on their website, as most people who buy aftermarket axles replace their gears for bigger tires/more weight

resharp001

There should be an option to buy the housing alone that twill specifically accept your factory rubicon e-locker (ie, the full carrier with your factory ring gear) and axle shafts. You might look at Dynatracs website just to narrow it down. I think the option on NR might try to get you to build an entire axle with internals. You are definitely able to buy just the PR44 housing at one of these places.

Better yet, might be easiest to just call Dynatrac.

Confirm this, but I think this is the one you want. There is another housing with a different part #, but believe that is for an ARB or eaton e-locker.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/h...sing-kit-front

nthinuf

As noted, there are different versions of housings. Some are designed to accept the 'factory' rubicon elocker (made by GKN?). The factory rubicon e-locker and the Eaton e-locker you'll see on these other sites are NOT the same. The interior of the rubicon housings are designed specifically for the factory locker, including the use of different length axle shafts I believe.

The other version of housing accepts any of the standard configuration traction devices. If you are buying a complete axle, most of us would suggest that you choose this standard variant.

And if you have plans to lift in the future, it might also be worth mentioning that these aftermarket housings can be set up with caster correction to account for added lift height.

16FW

Perfect, thanks.

resharp001

Any more clarity in regards to a total cost of damage?

16FW

They haven't gotten back to me yet.

karls10jk

I've got a friend with a 15 Sport with 15k miles, she bent the frame and they did not total it. The replaced the entire frame and axle.

I was thinking the same thing- it would have been easier, quicker, cheaper, faster, etc to total it.

16FW

Were there any problems with it when they got done?

karls10jk

There were some pieces that were not moved correctly so I spent a day correcting little things like that. Things that come to mind are rear brake lines, steering stops were missing, front sway bar links were mounted incorrectly, the bolts for the rear control arms were in the wrong spots (too short of a bolt), and axle breathers were not hooked up.

All of them were minor things and honestly, unless the dealer is super anal like I am or the technician is thorough and methodical then those minor items are likely to be missed.


I will say that once I sorted those out, the jeep drives just fine. They did fail to fix a fender and the hood wasn't straight but the fender and hood should have been replaced, then alignment wouldn't be an issue.

Watch the repair carefully, they'll attempt to use knock-off parts and in some places that's fine. I had an accident myself and they replaced my hood with an "OE equivalent". The hood looks like ass, doesn't close correctly, and has actually developed little bends and tweaks over time to where you can see the cheap metal has succumb to the pressure of the highway. I plan on taking it back and raising cane to geta Mopar hood.

Take note of your sticker placement and decals as well. I took mine to a shop where the owner was a "jeep guy" and had one "just like mine, 2010 and all". The decal placement was completely off. The Trail Rated badge was dead in the middle of the passenger side panel and "Jeep" was placed oddly across the front to where the tops of the letters were 1/8" off of the top of the grille. They reattached the rubber air seal on the grille with white 3m tape instead of getting a new one as they should have done.

On my repair, they ended up giving me the Jeep decal to place as I felt it should. I gave them measurements for the trail rated badge so it would be in the right spot.....to which the guy said, "you know, I thought it looked weird there" and I had them order the proper seal.


It can be fixed correctly, you've just got to be diligent and thorough, don't get in a hurry to get it back and don't be afraid to take it back in and have them correct mistakes.