Best guess on what is broken?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Decatur, GA
There were some pieces that were not moved correctly so I spent a day correcting little things like that. Things that come to mind are rear brake lines, steering stops were missing, front sway bar links were mounted incorrectly, the bolts for the rear control arms were in the wrong spots (too short of a bolt), and axle breathers were not hooked up.
All of them were minor things and honestly, unless the dealer is super anal like I am or the technician is thorough and methodical then those minor items are likely to be missed.
I will say that once I sorted those out, the jeep drives just fine. They did fail to fix a fender and the hood wasn't straight but the fender and hood should have been replaced, then alignment wouldn't be an issue.
Watch the repair carefully, they'll attempt to use knock-off parts and in some places that's fine. I had an accident myself and they replaced my hood with an "OE equivalent". The hood looks like ass, doesn't close correctly, and has actually developed little bends and tweaks over time to where you can see the cheap metal has succumb to the pressure of the highway. I plan on taking it back and raising cane to geta Mopar hood.
Take note of your sticker placement and decals as well. I took mine to a shop where the owner was a "jeep guy" and had one "just like mine, 2010 and all". The decal placement was completely off. The Trail Rated badge was dead in the middle of the passenger side panel and "Jeep" was placed oddly across the front to where the tops of the letters were 1/8" off of the top of the grille. They reattached the rubber air seal on the grille with white 3m tape instead of getting a new one as they should have done.
On my repair, they ended up giving me the Jeep decal to place as I felt it should. I gave them measurements for the trail rated badge so it would be in the right spot.....to which the guy said, "you know, I thought it looked weird there"
and I had them order the proper seal.
It can be fixed correctly, you've just got to be diligent and thorough, don't get in a hurry to get it back and don't be afraid to take it back in and have them correct mistakes.
All of them were minor things and honestly, unless the dealer is super anal like I am or the technician is thorough and methodical then those minor items are likely to be missed.
I will say that once I sorted those out, the jeep drives just fine. They did fail to fix a fender and the hood wasn't straight but the fender and hood should have been replaced, then alignment wouldn't be an issue.
Watch the repair carefully, they'll attempt to use knock-off parts and in some places that's fine. I had an accident myself and they replaced my hood with an "OE equivalent". The hood looks like ass, doesn't close correctly, and has actually developed little bends and tweaks over time to where you can see the cheap metal has succumb to the pressure of the highway. I plan on taking it back and raising cane to geta Mopar hood.
Take note of your sticker placement and decals as well. I took mine to a shop where the owner was a "jeep guy" and had one "just like mine, 2010 and all". The decal placement was completely off. The Trail Rated badge was dead in the middle of the passenger side panel and "Jeep" was placed oddly across the front to where the tops of the letters were 1/8" off of the top of the grille. They reattached the rubber air seal on the grille with white 3m tape instead of getting a new one as they should have done.
On my repair, they ended up giving me the Jeep decal to place as I felt it should. I gave them measurements for the trail rated badge so it would be in the right spot.....to which the guy said, "you know, I thought it looked weird there"
and I had them order the proper seal.It can be fixed correctly, you've just got to be diligent and thorough, don't get in a hurry to get it back and don't be afraid to take it back in and have them correct mistakes.
FWIW, they gave the insurance company an estimate yesterday, but never bothered to call me.
Parts $6562.75
Labor $3980.50
Other $682.55
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Decatur, GA
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,362
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
That sounds like a total PITA......there's so much to move from damaged frame over to the new one. So many little things that could be overlooked. I wonder what the labor charge on that is. Ugh....good luck with this. Still subscribed to see what happens in regards to the axle.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Decatur, GA
Well, they finally called me, but didn't say anything I didn't already know. They are replacing the frame, but claim they won't know if the axle has a problem until they send it out for alignment 
They gave me the same estimate that was on the insurance website. I assume most of the labor charge will be replacing the frame.
Parts $6562.75
Labor $3980.50
Other $682.55
They gave me the same estimate that was on the insurance website. I assume most of the labor charge will be replacing the frame.
Parts $6562.75
Labor $3980.50
Other $682.55
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,362
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Well, they finally called me, but didn't say anything I didn't already know. They are replacing the frame, but claim they won't know if the axle has a problem until they send it out for alignment
They gave me the same estimate that was on the insurance website. I assume most of the labor charge will be replacing the frame.
Parts $6562.75
Labor $3980.50
Other $682.55
They gave me the same estimate that was on the insurance website. I assume most of the labor charge will be replacing the frame.
Parts $6562.75
Labor $3980.50
Other $682.55
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Decatur, GA
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Decatur, GA
Parts are still not at the shop. I have a couple questions:
1. What all is involved removing the body from the frame?
2. Does the roll cage have to come off, or is it attached to the body only?
1. What all is involved removing the body from the frame?
2. Does the roll cage have to come off, or is it attached to the body only?
JK Jedi
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 486
From: Knoxville
The body comes off of the frame with minimal work. Motech out in Vegas does it all day long and they've got it down to a science.
https://youtu.be/2HPT7KiveXM
The roll cage is bolted to the body only, sadly. Aside from the braking system, they should be able to lift it right off as seen in the Motech video linked above.
https://youtu.be/2HPT7KiveXM
The roll cage is bolted to the body only, sadly. Aside from the braking system, they should be able to lift it right off as seen in the Motech video linked above.