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Brake change pretty easy....

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Old 01-01-2013, 02:45 PM
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Default Brake change pretty easy....

Finally had to change the rear brakes after 57k miles. They weren't totally gone but far enough to suit my taste. After getting the wheel off with the 19mm socket I used a screwdriver to do the initial compression of the piston to make removal of the caliper easy. Had to use 13mm socket and 15mm backup wrench to remove the caliper bolts and then used a large c-clamp to finish the compression of the piston using one of the old pads to press against.

Overall not a very hard job at all. The 15mm wrench has to be the thin type to hold the mounting pin from turning during removal and initial installation.
Old 01-01-2013, 07:42 PM
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Just changed my pads at 55,000 on last Thursday. I also thought I should replace the rotors. I am glad I did decide to replace my rotors,because when I removed them I found oil on the parking brakes on both sides because the axle oil seals are leaking. I will contact the dealer tomorrow and am hoping that my lifetime powertrain warranty will cover the repair.
Old 01-01-2013, 07:55 PM
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About to do my rear pads and rotors. How hard was it to get the old rotors off ? Any special tools needed. And I'm definitely curious to see what your dealership says about the seals leaking.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Bxjk
About to do my rear pads and rotors. How hard was it to get the old rotors off ? Any special tools needed. And I'm definitely curious to see what your dealership says about the seals leaking.
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I also did mine at aroound 55,000KMs, rear pads only at the time. There's a great write up in project JK on this topic.

Make sure you release the e-brake, (the rotor is also a drum for the e-brake)and rotors should take some honest wiggle back and forth to remove....mine were no issues, no BFH required.

Some rotors from the factor have a series of little retainer clips that hold the rotor in place while on the assembly line, you need to remove them. (the project JK details this very well)

I would suggest when you re-intsall your new rotors, dab a little calipar lube on the hub it self, make for a real easy removal next time.

All the best
Old 01-02-2013, 05:15 AM
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I hope when you used a C-clamp to push the piston back,the bleeder screw was open
Old 01-02-2013, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by familytime
I hope when you used a C-clamp to push the piston back,the bleeder screw was open
Why is that?
Old 01-02-2013, 06:13 AM
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I learned the hard way about ABS,you should not push the fluid back through the ABS system,this causes damage to the system.Plus its just better to push out the old fluid any ways
Old 01-02-2013, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by familytime
I learned the hard way about ABS,you should not push the fluid back through the ABS system,this causes damage to the system.Plus its just better to push out the old fluid any ways
I did not know this. I have changed brakes in at least 6 vehicles with ABS. Never opened the bleeder, just popped the lid off the fluid reservoir and compressed the pistons on the calipers. I have never had a problem doing it this way. Did I just get lucky, or is this ABS concern specific to a certain vehicle?
Old 01-02-2013, 06:46 AM
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I just push mine back also. Never had an issue. familytime is probably correct tho. I was just wondering why the OP had to compress the piston to remove the caliper? I never had to do that either?
Old 01-02-2013, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rob_engineer
I did not know this. I have changed brakes in at least 6 vehicles with ABS. Never opened the bleeder, just popped the lid off the fluid reservoir and compressed the pistons on the calipers. I have never had a problem doing it this way. Did I just get lucky, or is this ABS concern specific to a certain vehicle?
^^This is they way I've done breaks, ABS or non-ABS. I've done both the front and rear of my JK this way. No issues.


Quick Reply: Brake change pretty easy....



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