Brake change pretty easy....
#11
JK Junkie
Finally had to change the rear brakes after 57k miles. They weren't totally gone but far enough to suit my taste. After getting the wheel off with the 19mm socket I used a screwdriver to do the initial compression of the piston to make removal of the caliper easy. Had to use 13mm socket and 15mm backup wrench to remove the caliper bolts and then used a large c-clamp to finish the compression of the piston using one of the old pads to press against.
Overall not a very hard job at all. The 15mm wrench has to be the thin type to hold the mounting pin from turning during removal and initial installation.
Overall not a very hard job at all. The 15mm wrench has to be the thin type to hold the mounting pin from turning during removal and initial installation.
#12
JK Junkie
Sometimes if the rotors are quite worn there may be a ridge at the top of the face. The caliper piston may need to be pushed back a little so the caliper with the pads can be pulled over that ridge.
#13
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Most pads have some things on them that can harm the piston of the caliper if it is forced off of the bracket without first compressing it some. After removing these I see that they are there but not sticking up the way most of them I have done are. But still why force the issue when all it takes is a little pressure with a screwdriver in the gap to make some clearance and it slips right off without any effort at all.
Now as for the abs question pressing the piston back in is not going to harm the abs system at all. Except for those that have to be twisted with a special tool while applying pressure to move the piston back in this is how all of them are done every day. You can buy a special tool to press the piston back in but I have had this same c-clamp from sears for about 27 years and it has done thousands of brake jobs so it works fine for me.
Now as for the abs question pressing the piston back in is not going to harm the abs system at all. Except for those that have to be twisted with a special tool while applying pressure to move the piston back in this is how all of them are done every day. You can buy a special tool to press the piston back in but I have had this same c-clamp from sears for about 27 years and it has done thousands of brake jobs so it works fine for me.
#14
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: gaithersburg, Maryland
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Keeps crap out of the ABS/ traction systems valves.
Easier than removing fluid from the master. Gets rid of the old fluid that is closest to the heat source , rather than pushing it back up stream.
#15
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
This is a sealed system so there is no crap in the system unless you open the bleeder and let crap fall into the system. If you insist on opening the bleeder and letting the fluid drain out instead of pushing it back then you need to add some.