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Stock JK TechBulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.
I had a rusty break hose fail and am trying to replace it, this is my first time trying to do this.
I got all the bolts moving, but when I try to remove the brake line bolt from the clamp it is not letting the black brake line spin. It wants to twist the line.
I have drenched in pb blaster, and tried holding the black line with some pliers, but they wont budge apart.
I am trying to be very careful not to bend the brake line, but not sure what else I can try.
Ensure that you're using the appropriate wrenches so you can get a grip all the way around the nut but if it won't budge then I'd look at replacing that piece of line. It's not far to run from the master cylinder down to that location and I'm sure that jeep dealer right at the base of the Wright Memorial bridge would have it for a reasonable price.
The nut is moving from the bracket, but not freely from the metal brake line. I think it may be seized up inside, just not sure how to break it loose without hurting the metal brake line.
Oddly enough, the rear brake lines that span a much further distance were extremely reasonable at the dealer. Worst case scenario is it's probably a few bucks if you happen to bust that front hard line (that's the shortest one so ballparking cost based on the rear). I'd probably let it set overnight with blaster on it, then lightly take vice grips and attempt to hold the hard line while turning the nut portion. If it's just not going to happen, save yourself some heartache and succumb to buying a new hard line.
It is driver front and I think the shortest. Is it hard to replace the hard line with a pre-bent one without removing much in the jeep? I am working in an apt parking lot, so I need to keep repairs not so obvious.
I've not replaced one of the front ones, but it just runs from the ABS module (right above that wheel well) down to where you see it pop through below the liner. The one you buy from the dealer will be the same bends and be a direct swap, and doable in a parking lot IMO. swap and then bleed the lines. Ideally you can get that to break loose, but worst case scenario isn't too bad.
So karma came for me. I had a brake line bust and I was replacing them tonight. Guess who ran into the same issue?? I ended up disconnecting it from the caliper and loosening it from the bottom, keeping the top nut stationary. That sucked.
Heat them first with a propane torch them spray them for fast cool with water, don't heat to red hot though. Nut comes out like easy with a bit of thin oil lubricant. Wiggle back and forth couple of times and bingo. Never mind the "you will weaken the brake line and possible failure thingy". Been doing this for nearly fifty years and no failures. Make sure the fluid is changed though as you will have burnt the hell out of the fluid in the line. How I do mine without the busted brake line chase up towards the MC.