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Brake light issue

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Old 03-19-2014, 07:36 AM
  #11  
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Default 2010 jk tail light issue

The left turn signal and brake light is out all others work ive had this problem in the past. then it will suddenly fix its self. I saw it on another jeep. he too has a towing package. Could it be the wire harness for the trailer lights?
Old 03-19-2014, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sean
The left turn signal and brake light is out all others work ive had this problem in the past. then it will suddenly fix its self. I saw it on another jeep. he too has a towing package. Could it be the wire harness for the trailer lights?
Everything else works. Just the left and right brake lights dont. Turns and 3rd works. I was told it might be my signal indicator on the steering column?!
Old 03-19-2014, 03:30 PM
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[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: center"]BRAKE LAMP DOES NOT ILLUMINATE


1. Ineffective or missing bulb.[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]



1. Test and replace brake lamp bulb if required.[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]



[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]2. Ineffective ground circuit.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]2. Test and repair open brake lamp ground circuit if required.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]3. Ineffective fuse.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]3. Test and replace the fuse in the TIPM if required.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white"]4. Ineffective feed circuit.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white"]4. Test and repair open brake lamp switch output circuit or stop lamp output circuit if required.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white"]5. Ineffective switch.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white"]5. Test and replace brake lamp switch if required.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]6. Ineffective TIPM inputs or outputs.
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: white, align: left"]6. Use a diagnostic scan tool to test the TIPM inputs and outputs. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Especially note #6
Old 03-19-2014, 03:39 PM
  #14  
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Thanks bud. So the reference of fuse in #4 is for what? Some of that post is a tad confusing.
Old 03-19-2014, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by courtsm3
Thanks bud. So the reference of fuse in #4 is for what? Some of that post is a tad confusing.
You know the fuse is good because the 3rd light comes on. The 3rd light is the only one with a fuse.

Unfortunately, it's beginning to look like you need the dealer's scan tool to check the TIPM inputs/outputs, as noted in step 6.
Old 03-19-2014, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
You know the fuse is good because the 3rd light comes on. The 3rd light is the only one with a fuse. Unfortunately, it's beginning to look like you need the dealer's scan tool to check the TIPM inputs/outputs, as noted in step 6.
Fricken frick..... Thanks for your help
Old 03-21-2014, 06:09 AM
  #17  
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Changing the bulb fixed the problem for now. The back of the bulb had came loose and from time to time would work my next step is to upgrade to led lights.
Old 03-24-2014, 08:37 PM
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I took it to jeep yesterday and told them about the issue. He was like man both your bulbs are burnt out. Filaments looked fine to me. $12 later they still dont work lol. Dumbass. BUT today i read my codes and i had high left/right tail light code. So this is progress! Likely a switch im hoping and not a broken wire in some stupid spot.
Old 03-24-2014, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by courtsm3
I took it to jeep yesterday and told them about the issue. He was like man both your bulbs are burnt out. Filaments looked fine to me. $12 later they still dont work lol. Dumbass. BUT today i read my codes and i had high left/right tail light code. So this is progress! Likely a switch im hoping and not a broken wire in some stupid spot.
You can do a continuity test on the switch.

Disconnect the battery.
Unplug the connector to the switch.
With the plunger extended test between pin 1 to 2
With the plunger depressed test between pin 3 to 4 and 5 to 6

I don't know if the pins are labeled but they are 1 to 6 from left to right with the plunger on the right side.

My wiring diagrams aren't working so I have no idea how the 3rd brake light comes into play.

Good luck!
Old 03-25-2014, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Canibeat
You can do a continuity test on the switch.

Disconnect the battery.
Unplug the connector to the switch.
With the plunger extended test between pin 1 to 2
With the plunger depressed test between pin 3 to 4 and 5 to 6

I don't know if the pins are labeled but they are 1 to 6 from left to right with the plunger on the right side.

My wiring diagrams aren't working so I have no idea how the 3rd brake light comes into play.

Good luck!
You have the pin numbers correct, but your continuity test sequence is a little confusing.
With the switch installed and the brake pedal at rest, (plunger depressed), pins 1&2, and pins 3&4 will be closed; pins 5&6 will be open.
With the brake pedal depressed, (plunger extended), pins 1&2, and pins 3&4 will be open; pins 5&6 will be closed.

Pins 5 and 6 are for the switch in the 3rd brake light circuit. Power comes from the battery positive terminal, to fuse M-1, out of the TIPM to the brake pedal switch pin 5, out pin 6 to the 3rd brake light. No computer involved. It's an old style hard wired circuit.
Power is tapped from this circuit after the brake pedal switch, into the TIPM and the cluster. That power tap is a trigger to tell the computer to turn on the regular brake lights. This isn't the only way the computer knows to turn on the regular brake lights, though.
One or both of the other switches in the brake pedal switch assembly can also trigger the computer to turn on the regular brake lights, but only when the ignition is on.


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