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Old 10-22-2014, 07:12 PM
  #21  
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I have used those thermo quiet lads on previous vehicles and loved them. None of the local stores had a set in stock when I needed them for dd jeep so I had to put on auto zones cmax BS! Like other guy said. They do not perform as expect.squeak like hell.

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Old 10-23-2014, 03:29 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mOjO_JK
Well thank you for the information about the bleeding...figure I might as well get that done...And I figure I will just get all four brakes done. I know it's super easy to change the pads and the bleeding shouldn't be a problem either...and as for budget it is about 65.00 for each pair so about 130.00 total...I've read some bad reviews on the AZ brake pads and one from here, I don't mind ordering them if I have to...But thank you all for the replies and info.
Slightly more then you want (but close) and good pads. I ran these on my WJ and they work great. From Summit Racing.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hw...model/wrangler

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hw...model/wrangler
Old 10-23-2014, 03:51 AM
  #23  
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Squeaky breaks? Lube them! O wait.......
Old 10-23-2014, 04:15 AM
  #24  
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I have used multiple kinds of pads and still get the brake squeal. Make sure that you get the high temp brake lube and cover the back of the pad, the piston for the rotor, and the guides for the pad. That at least helps with the noise.
Old 10-23-2014, 05:03 PM
  #25  
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I have put Wagner Thermo Quiets on just about every car I've had. Great pads. Same stopping power as most "better" pads and very little brake dust. Never ever had them squeal. Just make sure that the rotors are safe to turn or add them to your shopping list. New pads on grooved rotors is a waste of time, pads, and money. And no need to bleed the brake system. The fluid used from the factory is more than good enough for several years. Unless you live or drive in very damp climates. The fluid doesn't loose it's stability too much with age, but it really doesn't like moisture. Hell, haha, I drove a 1965 Olds 442 for a year and a half before I got to the disc brake swap part of the build. Car stopped fine. The fluid was 40years old at the time. The wheel cylinders were totally rusted out, but the car stopped every time I hit the pedal.

Watch out for the rear calipers. I haven't done a Jeep, yet, but some of the rear caliper pistons "screw" out of the caliper as pads age and cannot be simply pressed back in with a clamp. They have to rotate and they return into the caliper. Again. Jeep is probably different. But I know most Asian cars with rear discs are this way.
Old 10-23-2014, 05:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Collyn
..... Watch out for the rear calipers. I haven't done a Jeep, yet, but some of the rear caliper pistons "screw" out of the caliper as pads age and cannot be simply pressed back in with a clamp. They have to rotate and they return into the caliper. Again. Jeep is probably different. But I know most Asian cars with rear discs are this way.
The JK calipers are the press-in type.

The screw-in type are for disc systems that integrate the parking brake with the disc caliper instead of having a parking shoe/drum. (I'll be doing a set on my sister's Honda this weekend...)
Old 10-23-2014, 05:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jiblet
The JK calipers are the press-in type. The screw-in type are for disc systems that integrate the parking brake with the disc caliper instead of having a parking shoe/drum. (I'll be doing a set on my sister's Honda this weekend...)
My daughters MINI has the screw in type. I bought the brake caliper tool set cheap from harbor freight. It actually works very well.
Old 12-15-2014, 11:56 AM
  #28  
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My 2012 JKU just clicked over 40K miles this week, so I replaced the rear pads today with the Wagner Thermo Quiet brand pads. They looked pretty good, maybe still had 50% of material left. But the best part is no more squeaking as it has done since new. Don't know how long it will last, but all's well for now.............



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