Coming up on three years, should I replace my battery?
Just read it with a DC voltmeter, I have a Fluke 87 multimeter, however it's not a $15.00 meter. But as I also posted, I read good voltage on the battery even though the battery would not start the Jk.
Batteries are a lot more than just volts though! For example I install 24v fire alarms in buildings (2 x 12 volt batteries wired in series are the backup supply). When ever I service an alarm we check the batteries. The majority of the batteries are 12v 7Ah (amp hours) the bigger the system the more ah a battery needs, so a car battery will be much more than that. Quite often a battery will read 12v on my meter but the amp hours are far below 7, meaning the battery is no good.
So what that means is that the internal capacity of the battery isnt there. So when you hook a volt meter up to a car battery it is misleading. It may say 12v but you arent checking its capacity. So when you load test a battery what it does is put the battery under stress to make sure it still has the capacity to crank the Jeep.
Please correct me if im wrong but I think I got it after working at a shop for 5 years and doing what I do now for another 5.
So what that means is that the internal capacity of the battery isnt there. So when you hook a volt meter up to a car battery it is misleading. It may say 12v but you arent checking its capacity. So when you load test a battery what it does is put the battery under stress to make sure it still has the capacity to crank the Jeep.
Please correct me if im wrong but I think I got it after working at a shop for 5 years and doing what I do now for another 5.
Batteries are a lot more than just volts though! For example I install 24v fire alarms in buildings (2 x 12 volt batteries wired in series are the backup supply). When ever I service an alarm we check the batteries. The majority of the batteries are 12v 7Ah (amp hours) the bigger the system the more ah a battery needs, so a car battery will be much more than that. Quite often a battery will read 12v on my meter but the amp hours are far below 7, meaning the battery is no good.
So what that means is that the internal capacity of the battery isnt there. So when you hook a volt meter up to a car battery it is misleading. It may say 12v but you arent checking its capacity. So when you load test a battery what it does is put the battery under stress to make sure it still has the capacity to crank the Jeep.
Please correct me if im wrong but I think I got it after working at a shop for 5 years and doing what I do now for another 5.
So what that means is that the internal capacity of the battery isnt there. So when you hook a volt meter up to a car battery it is misleading. It may say 12v but you arent checking its capacity. So when you load test a battery what it does is put the battery under stress to make sure it still has the capacity to crank the Jeep.
Please correct me if im wrong but I think I got it after working at a shop for 5 years and doing what I do now for another 5.
Batteries are a lot more than just volts though! For example I install 24v fire alarms in buildings (2 x 12 volt batteries wired in series are the backup supply). When ever I service an alarm we check the batteries. The majority of the batteries are 12v 7Ah (amp hours) the bigger the system the more ah a battery needs, so a car battery will be much more than that. Quite often a battery will read 12v on my meter but the amp hours are far below 7, meaning the battery is no good.
So what that means is that the internal capacity of the battery isnt there. So when you hook a volt meter up to a car battery it is misleading. It may say 12v but you arent checking its capacity. So when you load test a battery what it does is put the battery under stress to make sure it still has the capacity to crank the Jeep.
Please correct me if im wrong but I think I got it after working at a shop for 5 years and doing what I do now for another 5.
So what that means is that the internal capacity of the battery isnt there. So when you hook a volt meter up to a car battery it is misleading. It may say 12v but you arent checking its capacity. So when you load test a battery what it does is put the battery under stress to make sure it still has the capacity to crank the Jeep.
Please correct me if im wrong but I think I got it after working at a shop for 5 years and doing what I do now for another 5.
to the OP!
you mention that you also have CB, PIAAs and WARN lights
SO...
Why not investing in a "Dual Battery System"!?
Brake the loads off your Battery, one Battery for your Jeep and one for your accessories!
you mention that you also have CB, PIAAs and WARN lights
SO...
Why not investing in a "Dual Battery System"!?

Brake the loads off your Battery, one Battery for your Jeep and one for your accessories!
Originally Posted by A.R.X-D
to the OP!
you mention that you also have CB, PIAAs and WARN lights
SO...
Why not investing in a "Dual Battery System"!?
Brake the loads off your Battery, one Battery for your Jeep and one for your accessories!
you mention that you also have CB, PIAAs and WARN lights
SO...
Why not investing in a "Dual Battery System"!?

Brake the loads off your Battery, one Battery for your Jeep and one for your accessories!

Seriously just have your battery load tested and put this thread to rest.
Hook it up to your battery and crank the engine. If your readings dip below a certain point as your battery cranks the starter, your battery has a problem (check both amps and volts).
Sometimes a batter no longer has the cranking power to crank the starter despite showing the proper voltage on the meter. It'll show the correct voltage, but can't turn the starter over. That's why you must watch the meter as you crank the starter. If you crank the starter and you show the correct readings, but it still won't turn, it's your starter (or a connection to your starter) and not your battery.
It's been a while since I've done it though, so I might be leaving out some details, but I think that's about right. Anyone want to chime in in case I'm missing something?
Sometimes a batter no longer has the cranking power to crank the starter despite showing the proper voltage on the meter. It'll show the correct voltage, but can't turn the starter over. That's why you must watch the meter as you crank the starter. If you crank the starter and you show the correct readings, but it still won't turn, it's your starter (or a connection to your starter) and not your battery.
It's been a while since I've done it though, so I might be leaving out some details, but I think that's about right. Anyone want to chime in in case I'm missing something?


