Shannon75

The Only bolts that I woupd think that would be loose is the track bar maybe the trail arms but not much else correct as sway bar links seem ok shocks are tight all that is good

resharp001

Both TB bolts should be 125 ft lbs. The lower control arm bolts on the front axle (if they installed cam bolts) should be 125 ft lbs. If those TB bolts are tight, it's time to inspect the ball joints. If you have a floor jack and jack stands, jack up the axle so the front tires are a couple inches off the ground, and then support the axle on jack stands so it's stable. If you do not have 2 jack stands, you can do one side at a time......jack up the tire a couple inches. Slide a spade/shovel under the tire, and use the handle as leverage....stepping on the handle to force upward movement on the wheel. It's the lower BJs that take 100% of the load on our JKs, but the easiest place to spot movement/slop is by the upper BJ, where the knuckle meets the C. Just watch closely as you step on the shovel. You should see almost no movement. There is a difference between the C flexing a tiny bit and that entire knuckle moving up/down. If you see movement or hear any clunk, that's no bueno. I'd say ~85% of REAL wobbles are TB and BJ related in some manner, and it sounds like yours is indeed real wobble (not out of balance tires, etc). You can also google "planman death wobble" and find a couple good videos about the entire steering linkage, but TB and BJs are were you really need to focus....and lower control arm mounts if you have what looks like big washers on the side of the brackets. If you need any more help, I'm usually watching things closely. If you have any questions, snap a short video and post to you tube, linking it here. I'll PM you my cell number if you need super quick reference as well. Keep in mind too.....once you have a wobble, it stresses everything, so the wobble itself can cause other things that were previously "ok" to crap out (like BJs). Hopefully we can pinpoint something and set your mind at ease a bit. I know it sux having wobbles in the back of your mind! They're scary.

Shannon75

Ball joints all new less than 1000 miles ago every part has all been replaced before install tb tie rods drag link u joints. All within 1500 miles not an issue till install. They said every bolts is tight and all good I dont want to throw more money at it or have more issues I am at a lose

Joe C

You will destroy many of those new parts you put on if you continue to have DW so definitely get it fixed ASAP.

As others have said, make damn sure all the joints/bolts are tight. Track bar and ball joints are the most common cause.

Tire pressure or tires can be a cause as well. Correct tire pressure on over-sized tires will not be the same as stock. I got mine driving home from an offroad park after destroying my sidewalls but couldn't tell by looking at them. After multiple trips to the dealer under warranty, a replaced track bar, and several replaced steering stabilizers, the dealer swapped wheels/tires with one on the lot and got the problem to go away. Replaced the tires and DW was gone.

Shannon75

Ok so here is the update had the ship put the stock suspension back on. Drove home no major issues maybe a little wobble when hit just right nothing crazy like before. More like bump steer. Now the only issue is that between 35ish-55ish on the flat amd no load just cruising I have a shimmy in the steering wheel. At 60and above it rides smooth as can be. Once again no major issues befors this was installed any help please. I even went over the same bump and everything that caused the wobble the first time at about the same speed with nothing major

resharp001

Are there cam bolts in the lower control arms? You had mentioned them previously, but it was not clear if the dealer installed them or not. If you are not certain, or don't know what a cam bolt is, snap a picture of where the lower control arm mounts to the axle. Since you are back to stock and still have the sign of some issue, albeit not as significant, the only thing I can think of is 1) you have cam bolts and that bolt isn't tightened enough allowing some play, or 2) you have a bad joint in the mix.

I know that you have advised things have been replaced recently. I do not know how bad the wobble was that you had when leaving the dealer previously, but what you need to at least keep in mind is that a bad enough wobble itself can eat up a joint, regardless.

Shannon75

No cam bolts as it was stock the wobble was as bad as you would see if you took the track bar off. It only happened once and not again if you watch the extreme terrain video that is what i had. I had nothing before at all nothing just trying to fugure this out. Also they never loosed the lower control arms to install just did tie in or out

Shannon75

Also after the lift they aligned it I was not happy with the situation so when I told then to put the old back on I said don't align it and I would align it at a shop near me. (Which I haven't done yet as I just drove it home) and can I cause allot of damage only driving with death wobble for 100-300 get if that

resharp001

I did not ask my question appropriately to get the response I was looking for. So everyone is 100% crystal clear, there are no cam bolts (which you did say), and there never were cam bolts in there. This comment above was only a suggestion the dealer previously made. Sorry, not trying to be difficult, it's just an important thing for everyone who reads this to understand.

Keep in mind that the only "alignment" that can be done on a JK without any form of caster correction is setting toe and re-centering the steering wheel. Camber is not adjustable, and caster would not be adjustable unless you had something like cam bolts, adjustable control arms, or control arm brackets.

I can only reiterate what I've previously said, and we can hope someone else chimes in with their opinion. The lift that was installed was essentially just adding 2.5" springs and shocks, probably adding some longer sway bar links, and possibly adding some brake line brackets.. Nothing else would have been touched. You went to drive home, hit a bump and wobble was triggered. Since there was no form of caster correction, your caster was a bit lower than factory due to the lift, and probably accentuated the wobble, but would not have been the root cause of the wobble.

I think we can all agree that a jeep which is 100% healthy will not wobble. I think we can also agree that not a single thing changed with the tires while the lift was being installed. I think we can also agree that back to factory, you should have no bump steer, and the fact that you have something going on only points to something still being amiss. The same thing that was amiss with the lift on (and after hitting some jarring bump) but accentuated more. It is my opinion that you have to throw out all thoughts of "this was replaced and that was replaced", and you have to inspect the full steering linkage. Should you have to? No. Is it a pain in the ass? Yes. Is there another way to get to the bottom of it? Not in my opinion.

I know you don't like that answer, and I know you don't want to hear me talk about ball joints anymore. I'll only ask for confirmation, which brand of ball joints had you replaced with? I don't want to keep clogging up your thread, so I'll hope that maybe someone else will chime in with what they think.

Shannon75

No I want call the info I can getvand I hope it didnt come across badly on my txt. I beleive they are moog I know my tires are out of balance some as they couldn't get them to zero not sure of this is causing the steering till 55 the other problem I am not sure of at all. So please keep any suggestions coming please