AJW

My daughter's 2008 JK experienced the Death Wobble this weekend. It's stock except for slightly larger wheels and tires. 120,000 miles, we've owned it about two months, 1,000 miles.

I've read postings and watched YouTube videos. I can't seem to find anything obviously wrong other than the steering stabilizer which was in need of replacement. When replaced the wobble is gone, but I'm worried as I've read that this isn't a true fix and there's likely still an issue. Everything seems tight underneath, all rubber boots are intact. When steering wheel is rotated, I don't see any extra play in anything. I can't get any play in the wheels from hub bearings or ball joints. However, when testing the ball joints, they're pretty tight, but I can get a "click" and maybe 1mm play (not measured scientifically, just from what I can see) by jacking the jeep and prying up with some tube steel on the bottom of the tire. I feel like this is an allowable amount of play but I'm not sure. I also read that ball joints are not a very likely cause of DW.

I'm not sure if I ought to replace the ball joints, or maybe remove the track bar and replace the bushings (even though they seem OK.)

Thoughts?

Mark Doiron

Here's a thread with info (third post) on checking balljoints. Estimating the play is not a good procedure. You need a dial indicator.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...joints-177242/

Honestly, if these are the original BJs, I'd recommend just change them. They have a plastic lining that wears out quickly and allows too much play. Recommend buy something better and greaseable--Synergy is quite popular.

And, BTW, had a friend who was having recurring issues with death wobble. It was caused by the trackbar not being properly torqued down when he and a few friends lifted his Jeep (the problem with a lift party that has too much party). Anyway, because of that the track bar wobbled out the holes. We welded up some washers, but he was still having issues. They did not stop until the BJs were replaced. BJs (and steering stabilizer) cannot usually start death wobble. But, once damaged they can contribute to it. I'd recommend along with replacing those BJs (if original), pull the trackbar and check the bolt holes for being enlarged--there should be no play. If there is, replace the bolts with the 9/16" bolt upgrade kit from Northridge.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/h...hoCGeoQAvD_BwE

Then weld 1/2" diameter washers that you've checked on the bolts to ensure they slide all of the way down (washers tend to have a bit of play, so you're going a size down to eliminate it).

resharp001

I'd put the most likely culprits of DW at these:
1) undertorqued TB bolts (and even slightly undertorqued causes issues)
2) worn TB bushings/joints
3) ball joints
4) wallowed out TB bracket holes (often the result of a good DW)

The thing about DW is it can get anyone, even unmodified jeeps as components just wear with use and time. 10 years and 120k miles....it's time to start sprucing things up a bit. I would put my $5 on a bad ball joint combined with something TB related if you're talking a real full on DW that causes you to have to come to an almost complete stop to recover. The SS was definitely not the actual CAUSE of the wobble, but was probably worn and toast after the wobble.

As Mark mentioend above, the factory BJs have a plastic cap that sits over the stud. If that cap so much as cracks, the BJ is toast as it allows too much play. If you stick a shovel or something under the tire while the axle is jacked up, and you can see any real movement when forcing upward pressure....it's toast. You really shouldn't see hardly anything moving between the knuckle and the C, and if you hear any cluck in the process, that's your answer.

At this point since you have so many miles and time on it, I'd completely remove the TB and inspect the joints. If you could find a new take-off TB locally for cheap (or free), I'd replace regardless. While the TB is off, really inspect the brackets like Mark is talking about.

Worn DL and TR joints come in to play as well, but they are less likely culprits of a full on DW in my opinion. I'm sorry your daughter experienced this as it's damn scary when it happens, and it's very dangerous! I would really try to avoid having her drive it until you can pinpoint and remedy the actual cause.

AJW

resharp001

You're saying that when you put upward pressure under the tire, you hear a click? Focus a flashlight right where the upper C and knuckle meet when you check.

AJW

resharp001

If that doesn't turn out to be the main culprit, PM me your email address and I'll PayPal you that $5 I mentioned earlier

If you think that you guys will own that jeep for a while longer, it might be worth looking at some decent ball joints. The new Teraflex ones are probably the best option at the moment (~$225-$250 IIRC); however, if you think your years of ownership are numbered, and considering you're not modified and got so much life out of the factory joints, you could probably get by replacing with cheap factories or moog joints and be ok. Hopefully you get things fixed up and enjoy several more years with that jeep!

AJW

resharp001

I probably shouldn't even bring this up......BUT, if you're going to break that front end down to change ball joints, you MAAAYYY consider replacing your inner axle seals at the same time considering the shafts will be out and it would only mean additional labor of removing the diff cover, removing the 4 bearing cap bolts, and yanking the carrier out. I can tell you it sux to break the front end down in order to ONLY to change a $16 leaky axle seal when that time comes. You have a lot of age and miles on the jeep, so might be worth a consideration if you do your own labor.

Valkyrie0002

On my WJ the DW was caused by one badly worn joint in the steering linkage.