Ok, so yesterday I brought my Jeep into the dealer for an oil change. I am more than capable of doing it myself but can never find the time. So I have 22,000 kms on it. They told me I am due for the 4x4 service, which is changing the front and rear diff fluids to my understanding. They want $300 plus tax for this.

Now, how hard is it really to do? Is it basically like draining engine oil? Do you have to actually remove the whole diff cover or can you just drain through the drain plug and refill? What does it cost (ballpark) for the diff fluids? I just don't think that I should be paying Mercedes service costs just because it is now Daimler Chrysler. I know it is a Jeep but most of the off-roading I see is taking short cuts through parking lot medians.

 

It's just a drain and refill for the dif's. Cost of the oil is minimal, $5-10$ worth of 80w-90, or 85w-140. The local Valvoline Instant Oil Change charges $30 for each "case", but they usually run 4x4 deals where you buy 2 and get 1 free (T-case). The T-case fluid will cost a bit more as I think it's the special Dextron 4??, but it is still no big deal to change. Oh yeah, and it's not Diamler Chrysler anymore either...

 

If you're in a larger town, it's no big deal. Just take it slow. There's some great write ups on the web (even outside of this site) about how to do this. If you've got the extra $$$ buy some LubeLockr gaskets. They make it too easy. If you're in a smaller town, there might be some issues in getting rid of the used 90w.

 

Autozone, Advance etc all recycle oil free of charge.

 

Thanks for the replies.

How often do you have to change the transfer case fluid? I know the diff's is every 24000 kms.

Any particular brand to use for the diff's? Should I just stop by the dealer and buy Mopar?

 

Check your owners manual to determine if you are on Schedule A or B (type of driving you do). Typically, you should change your T-case and manual transmission fluid about every 30,000 miles or sooner depending on situation.

You can't go wrong with Mopar fluid but I would also recommend Royal Purple 75W90 or even Mobil1.

 

The 30 has a drain plug now too.

 

I haven't looked at mine yet but do you know when they started putting drain plugs in the 30? My build date was Dec 2006.

 

$300 bucks - pretty steep for what's actually being done.

The front and rear differentials have drain/fill plugs, thus you don't even need to remove the covers. A quart of 75/80w90 GL5 gear oil goes in the front, and alittle more goes in the rear. The service manual recommends a 80w140 if you tow in the rear - this may be a good recommendation for all the rear diffs.
The transfer case has a fill and drain plug. These use a large allen wrench - forget the size. When draining, it will go all over the skid plate. It uses ATF +4 NOT Dextron.

I don't know about the automatic, but the manual also has drain and fill plugs. These use a "special" tool to remove, but can be made utilizing a metric nut/bolt. The drain plug is a pain to get to, right over the exhaust cross-over pipe. I used a vacuum pump down through the fill port. The manual uses Chrysler-spec Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) which is really a 5/10w30 motor oil with special friction modifiers. Amsoil makes a compatible fluid for this service.

With the right fluids and tools, should only take you a couple hours on the garage floor. The fluids should be all less than $50 (and for the good synthetic stuff - not the cheapo stuff the dealer is likely to put in). You don't even need to use a jack - alot of room underneath!

BTW - all these fluids should be changed after the parts break-in - 5000 miles or so. Many will argue that these "lifetime" fluids do in fact last a lifetime. Maybe so, but after you see the black sludge and silver pieces in the drained fluids, you'd have to question the notion of "lifetime fluid fills."

 

The drain plugs make it a little less messy for fluid replacement, however I have always removed the covers when changing fluid. I like to clean the inside out, using spray on electric motor cleaner or brake cleaner, then take a good look around. In the past have used the black or blue heat resistant sealant. Never had a problem. Filling can be a bit of a hassle. In the past I've used a small hand crank type pump that can be had at AutoZone for about $6.00.
Don't forget the friction additave if you have the limited slip.