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Stock JK TechBulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.
I have a 2011 JK sport auto. My ETC light comes on at times. It will not set the check engine soon light. It runs rough and the trac control light comes on with it. If I turn it off and turn it back on it runs fine. Does it more at an idal. any clues?
Mine was coming on followed by severe throttle lag. I replaced my pcv valve, insulated my entire throttle wire, shut off my hill start assist, recalibrated my throttle with aev procal, and threw on a sprint booster. So far no more warning light!! Time will tell if it’s permenantly fixed. It all started when the dealership replaced my water pump🙄.
I've done some research on this Throttle Control Warning light, but it seems like it was affecting 2007-2008 Jeeps. Mine is a 2010, and it came on for a split second, then my Jeep ran rough for a few seconds. I shut it off then turned it back on and it was fine, then the next time i started it, I pulled a check engine light, and after 5 key cycles the check engine light went away, and seems is fine for about a week now.
Anyone experience this? Should I take it in to the dealer so they can find nothing wrong with it!
Thanks.
Mine comes on when I run the a/c in summer. Turn off a/c and it goes away. Thing runs crappy or swelter in the heat. It must be the gas pedal getting cold or the connector. Either way its a pain.
I think I got the solution. I've got an '08 unlimited with a 3.8 v-6. My check engine light would come on. The code indicated there was a fault in the cooling system. I noticed that my temp needle would fluctuate and when it pegged on cold the ETC light would come on and the fan would go into high gear.
I replaced my thermostat, no change. When I replaced my coolant temp sensor the problem was fixed. My needle went to the correct spot and stayed there.
It seems that when the sensor failed the needle would become unreliable. This sent a false signal to the computer. Apparently when Chrysler installed the sensors they were made of cheap plastic. The replacement I used was brass. Much better quality.
Knock on wood the gremlin is gone.
Thank you so much! I had same problem. This fixed it!!!
They still appear after changing Throttle Pedal and Throttle Body from Dealer. Also Changed Ignition Pack, Spark Plug wires and plugs. 2 years ago I changed the PCM ECU, Alternator, battery and battery terminals. there is no help on the internet for this problem.
Need help ASAP.
I think I got the solution. I've got an '08 unlimited with a 3.8 v-6. My check engine light would come on. The code indicated there was a fault in the cooling system. I noticed that my temp needle would fluctuate and when it pegged on cold the ETC light would come on and the fan would go into high gear.
I replaced my thermostat, no change. When I replaced my coolant temp sensor the problem was fixed. My needle went to the correct spot and stayed there.
It seems that when the sensor failed the needle would become unreliable. This sent a false signal to the computer. Apparently when Chrysler installed the sensors they were made of cheap plastic. The replacement I used was brass. Much better quality.
Knock on wood the gremlin is gone.
Hi. Which codes did you get with this check engine light?
Thanks for the thread.. very informative.. got to digging and found a video on cleaning the throttle body.. very easy and seems to have fixed the problem I'm my jeep.. takes about 30 minutes.. cost of a can of throttle body cleaner, tooth brush and rag.. take off throttle body (remove piping between filter housing and throttle body, disconnect sensors in piping and on throttlebody sensor.. wiring also easily stabilized to bottom of throttle body.. remove 4 bolts to remove throttle body.. that too k about 5 minutes.. you'll see that there is a good amount of carbon build up.. this keeps the butterfly valve from opening easily, giving you the alarm.. spray liberally withe cleaner KEEPING THE ELECTRONIC PART OF THROTTLE BODY UP, you don't want cleaner dripping in there off of the butterfly valve.. use toothbrush to brush carbon free, DON'T MOVE THE BUTTERFLY VALVE AS IT IS CALIBRATED IN ELECTRONIC SIDE OF THROTTLE BODY. Spray more cleaner as necessary, brush then wipe clean. The precautions here are from the video and makes sense. The cleaner can says to do it on the motor, to open butterfly to clean, but I took mine off as the video suggested to get it really clean. Put it all back together, torqueing the 4 bolts to get a good seal. By the way, I reused the old seal as it was still in good shape and it stayed on sealing surface. Turned on key WITHOUT cranking, depressed gas pedal to floor and held, this should take between 5 to 10 seconds, let go of gas pedal, turned off key. Started up. Rode to town to do some errands, no more trouble). Took me a total of about 30 minutes. Hope this helps y'all..
How-To Tuesday
