Engine Problem--Need serious Help!!
11-10-2012, 06:25 AM
#11
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A lot of the 3.8's have a problem with burning oil, it is not uncommon to burn a quart/1000 miles with these engines. The OP stated he was 6000 beyond the scheduled oil change. So he was at 9k to 12k since the last oil change (and Im guessing the last time it was checked.) Yes his vehicle burned more than most modern vehicles do nowadays but Im pretty sure chrysler sadly considers up to a quart/1000 normal. He waited until it was knocking and then drove it to the dealer to have it checked instead of shutting it down and putting oil in it or having it towed there. I would take an educated guess and say that motor is toast.
Anyways good luck on your search OP
Anyways good luck on your search OP
11-10-2012, 07:20 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by Canibeat
Engines burn oil but not definitely not 4.5 quarts/5 in 6k miles. At most you'd burn a quart between oil changes. BMW recommends annual oil changes at 15k miles, I don't really agree with that but I changed once on my BMW and it has 21k miles and no problems.
Possibilities:
Fuel Injectors
Gas Quality
Spark Plugs/Wires
Carbon build up
Knock Sensor
If you're not using quality gas i.e Chevron, Shell, Mobil, 76 etc... probably should start, they have additives to help keep your internals free from carbon build up, which can lead to knocking. They sell gas cheaper than everyone else but have to make their money somehow. You may have a back knock sensor. It may be time to replace your spark plugs and wires. While you're at it you can put an additive in your fuel tank to clean your injectors.
I usually change my oil every 3.5-5k in all my cars and I never have a problem.
If you're having knocking I'd suggest you stop driving it until you get it repaired, you can cause more damage.
Even in extreme driving conditions, for an engine to burn 4.5 quarts of oil in 6k miles is ridiculous.
Dealership is a business trying to make money, don't trust them for anything, most of the maintenance you can do yourself with $20 Walmart tools, and some beer. Good luck!
Possibilities:
Fuel Injectors
Gas Quality
Spark Plugs/Wires
Carbon build up
Knock Sensor
If you're not using quality gas i.e Chevron, Shell, Mobil, 76 etc... probably should start, they have additives to help keep your internals free from carbon build up, which can lead to knocking. They sell gas cheaper than everyone else but have to make their money somehow. You may have a back knock sensor. It may be time to replace your spark plugs and wires. While you're at it you can put an additive in your fuel tank to clean your injectors.
I usually change my oil every 3.5-5k in all my cars and I never have a problem.
If you're having knocking I'd suggest you stop driving it until you get it repaired, you can cause more damage.
Even in extreme driving conditions, for an engine to burn 4.5 quarts of oil in 6k miles is ridiculous.
Dealership is a business trying to make money, don't trust them for anything, most of the maintenance you can do yourself with $20 Walmart tools, and some beer. Good luck!
11-10-2012, 08:41 AM
#14
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Go to a slightly heavier oil.
I'm sure, if you are like me, you still have to drive to class everyday and work as well. I would suggest if the oil is 5w-20, go to a 10w so it is heavier and adds more lubrication. You'll still have the start up tick, but hopefully the driving tick might be less noticeable.
Start looking around at different shops that do HEMI swaps. You can normally pick up a complete 3.8 motor for $750-$1000, from what I've seen. The work you can do yourself if you can borrow a cherry picker. Winter Break's coming up. Find someone that can help you muscle the engines in and out. It's nice having a second person. Last motor I did was a 360 V8 out of a 2001 Dodge Dakota into a '88 Dodge, and it took a weekend to unhook, remove, install, and rehook up all components.
With a competent partner, you should be able to do it in a weekend starting in the morning and having all tools and a game plan layed out. Know where you are going to start. Know where your tools are. Have another vehicle to drive to store to get something, there is ALWAYS something forgotten. I lucked out and O'rielys was at the end of my street, they became my best friends that summer.
PM me if you got some more questions.
I'm sure, if you are like me, you still have to drive to class everyday and work as well. I would suggest if the oil is 5w-20, go to a 10w so it is heavier and adds more lubrication. You'll still have the start up tick, but hopefully the driving tick might be less noticeable.
Start looking around at different shops that do HEMI swaps. You can normally pick up a complete 3.8 motor for $750-$1000, from what I've seen. The work you can do yourself if you can borrow a cherry picker. Winter Break's coming up. Find someone that can help you muscle the engines in and out. It's nice having a second person. Last motor I did was a 360 V8 out of a 2001 Dodge Dakota into a '88 Dodge, and it took a weekend to unhook, remove, install, and rehook up all components.
With a competent partner, you should be able to do it in a weekend starting in the morning and having all tools and a game plan layed out. Know where you are going to start. Know where your tools are. Have another vehicle to drive to store to get something, there is ALWAYS something forgotten. I lucked out and O'rielys was at the end of my street, they became my best friends that summer.
PM me if you got some more questions.
11-10-2012, 09:38 AM
#15
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Go to a slightly heavier oil.
I'm sure, if you are like me, you still have to drive to class everyday and work as well. I would suggest if the oil is 5w-20, go to a 10w so it is heavier and adds more lubrication. You'll still have the start up tick, but hopefully the driving tick might be less noticeable.
Start looking around at different shops that do HEMI swaps. You can normally pick up a complete 3.8 motor for $750-$1000, from what I've seen. The work you can do yourself if you can borrow a cherry picker. Winter Break's coming up. Find someone that can help you muscle the engines in and out. It's nice having a second person. Last motor I did was a 360 V8 out of a 2001 Dodge Dakota into a '88 Dodge, and it took a weekend to unhook, remove, install, and rehook up all components.
With a competent partner, you should be able to do it in a weekend starting in the morning and having all tools and a game plan layed out. Know where you are going to start. Know where your tools are. Have another vehicle to drive to store to get something, there is ALWAYS something forgotten. I lucked out and O'rielys was at the end of my street, they became my best friends that summer.
PM me if you got some more questions.
I'm sure, if you are like me, you still have to drive to class everyday and work as well. I would suggest if the oil is 5w-20, go to a 10w so it is heavier and adds more lubrication. You'll still have the start up tick, but hopefully the driving tick might be less noticeable.
Start looking around at different shops that do HEMI swaps. You can normally pick up a complete 3.8 motor for $750-$1000, from what I've seen. The work you can do yourself if you can borrow a cherry picker. Winter Break's coming up. Find someone that can help you muscle the engines in and out. It's nice having a second person. Last motor I did was a 360 V8 out of a 2001 Dodge Dakota into a '88 Dodge, and it took a weekend to unhook, remove, install, and rehook up all components.
With a competent partner, you should be able to do it in a weekend starting in the morning and having all tools and a game plan layed out. Know where you are going to start. Know where your tools are. Have another vehicle to drive to store to get something, there is ALWAYS something forgotten. I lucked out and O'rielys was at the end of my street, they became my best friends that summer.
PM me if you got some more questions.
Finding a second car for these next couple of days/weeks is going to be a little difficult. But I will definetly be in contact about any questions I have! Thanks so much
11-10-2012, 10:31 AM
#16
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I'm going to have to keep an eye on the dipstick then I was unaware these engines consume that much oil. I'd swap out the whole motor, maybe you can go to a salvage yard and find one.
11-10-2012, 01:01 PM
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Ok. I am completely a rookie when it comes to this stuff...should I look into purchasing a complete motor or just the short block? I feel like that would run cheaper and be a lot less work. I need to make friends with a mechanic quickly! haha.
Finding a second car for these next couple of days/weeks is going to be a little difficult. But I will definetly be in contact about any questions I have! Thanks so much
Finding a second car for these next couple of days/weeks is going to be a little difficult. But I will definetly be in contact about any questions I have! Thanks so much
11-15-2012, 12:04 PM
#18
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Update:
Tried reaching out to Chrysler Jeep but my jeep was bought a month before they implemented the LifeTime Warranty
But I sat down with the dealership today to talk numbers. $4500 is his best estimate of how much everything will cost me. I will be out of a car for 4 days but they will cover the cost of a loaner. The new short block will come with a 3yr/36K mile warranty
Option 2: I buy my own parts and the dealer will charge me $2000 in labor costs...but They won't guarantee anything with it
Which one do I choose??
Tried reaching out to Chrysler Jeep but my jeep was bought a month before they implemented the LifeTime Warranty
But I sat down with the dealership today to talk numbers. $4500 is his best estimate of how much everything will cost me. I will be out of a car for 4 days but they will cover the cost of a loaner. The new short block will come with a 3yr/36K mile warranty
Option 2: I buy my own parts and the dealer will charge me $2000 in labor costs...but They won't guarantee anything with it
Which one do I choose??
11-15-2012, 12:41 PM
#19
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The choice is yours based on $$$ and going without a warranty.
If you do buy your own parts, I would suggest not going with a short block since you would be swapping in valve train parts that ran without oil.
If you do buy your own parts, I would suggest not going with a short block since you would be swapping in valve train parts that ran without oil.
11-15-2012, 01:05 PM
#20
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Call a few shops and see how much they charge for an engine swap. Then go with whoever gives you a better deal. From here it's not that hard to figure out what to do.