Well then I guess you have me beat (but not by much). It was a silly jab for me to make anyway. In all my years on-line I've found 15 year olds that wrote like adults and 60 year olds that wrote like teenagers. You often just can't tell.

However, it doesn't change the facts. I didn't dismiss your theories out of hand, I dismissed them because they are wrong. 37 PSI is the factory recommended tire pressure. It is not too high. High (or low) tire pressures produce uneven wear patterns across the tread. My tires are wearing evenly across the tread. They are not overinflated. You might have noticed that no one has posted agreeing with your "theory" (quite the opposite actually).

The 3.8 liter engine in the JK produces 237 pound feet of torque. One can do all the "jackrabbit" starts they want and still not make a noticeable impact on rear tire wear. Especially not after only 2,500 miles. Please.

I really don't have any interest in continuing this. I don't come here for this purpose and I started this post to solve a problem, not get in a continuous argument.

I still want to figure out what is going on. I jacked up the rear yesterday to make sure the differential was free and it is. There also does not seem to be anything wrong with the lockers. It's possible that I'm chasing a ghost and that the rears were already worn more than the fronts and I didn't notice. I don't think this is the case but I should know more as I put mileage on the tires in their new locations. I'd love to hear some fresh ideas if anyone has them!

 

Try this.

1. Cool tires
2. Flat surface
3. Rub sidewalk chalk in a straight line all the way across the tread
4. Drive a short distance in a straight line
5. Examine remaining chalk
6. Over-inflation is indicated if the center section of the chalk is rubbed away and you're left with chalk remaining nearer the edges of the tread face (see example photo below).

FWIW

 

The only thing in common to cause excessive rear tire wear on any vehicle regardless of pressure, towing, driving habits, or anything is by having a strong rear posi-traction or a stuck locker

 

I had the same prob, so I stopped giving the 350lb stripper twinz rides home.

 

I had this issue in my Duramax .... posi-trac causing rear tire wear. Some electronic lockers act like a posi when unlocked, I believe.

Sent from my Eris using Tapatalk

 

Well, that comes back to something I was thinking about. I have a Rubicon with factory electronic lockers. I'm sure the locker isn't engaging... I'd feel it and the computer would likely throw a code. However, the rear axle is limited slip as well isn't it? I suppose it could be an issue there but I think I'd notice it when driving.

 

I believe the Tru-Lok in the Rubi D44 JK rear end is either fully locked or fully open. (Pretty sure I've run across Dynatrac posting to that effect in another thread.)

planman is one of the most experienced/informed JK guys on the board. He uses a mathematical formula to establish street pressures; I've experimented with it and find it to mirror the aforementioned chalk test, for what it's worth.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...=1#post1733385

 

Sorry to throw a "wrench" in the thread with the tire pressure question. I only asked because I'm running my load d's with 27, and can imagine more would be an issue (like th 40 psi the tire shop put in when I bought them). But if your on stock tires, they're probably load c's thus requiring more psi.

Then I could only attribute it to the rotation schedule. See how the wear is after this rotation, and maybe another rotation in 3k. Might be excessive, but I rotate every 3k.

Any how, hope you find out soon. And if not... then I guess you'll be going larger sooner.

 

And you could rotate all 5 to make them last a little longer.