Newbies....

There's a bundle for the Evap Can and SS relo kits. If you send me an email, I'll combine shipping with the Hard Top kit. Ohhh wait, that's already free...

 

Damn! you guys had me worried. Just ran out and looked at my top, no cracks!
I will definately fab some metal pads at work soon!
Thanks for the heads up!!!

 

Not to nitpick, Brett, but what is the thickness of a plate?
Stainless grade?

I'm guessing from the size of the plates that they are intended for between the bolt head and the top?

Thanks.

 

You are correct, between the bold head and the top.

1/8" 304

Nuthin but the best around here.

 

I've started an update thread, for all of my products. This includes the Hard Top Saver Kit

Here is a link: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/sponsoring-manufacturers-vendors-check-out-cyber-monday-specials-24/official-woods-jeepswag-product-news-thread-53660/

 

Before I knew JK-Forum.com (and therefore Woods' smart solution, as most of the stuff he offers - and some of which I want ), I came up with a simple idea as shown below.
My aim was not minimize the crack's issue (I did not even know of it at the time!) but to simplify the process of bolting/unbolting the hard top to the tub.

So I purchased eight 'butterfly bolts' (don't know the name in English ) - 2 are spare, you never know - and the biggest washers I could find ... total cost less than 15 bucks.
And I used an old inner tube to make some sort of "shock spacer":

http://img55.imageshack.us/i/img0886ww4.jpg/

(I apologize if I do not direct link, pics are big)

Tools: a cutter, scissors and .... some patience

http://img397.imageshack.us/i/img0887rq9.jpg/

The rubber came as an idea to try to diminish the possible vibrations coming from the hard top, in my view also a culprit in these cracks, together with the too-tight screws and a really small factory-fitted washer ....

http://img75.imageshack.us/i/img0888vg3.jpg/

The finished "product".

http://img205.imageshack.us/i/img0889ae4.jpg/

Certainly, they are not wonderful to see, but I was more interested in practicality ... and plus I never carry people in the back!
I may paint them in black in the future.

So far they've been holding on for several months without troubles, and they are very easy to use. Also, tightening by hand allows to see the 'flex' on the area and therefore back up a little and not risk ruining the hard top.
Only drawback is that the rubber "sticks" to the plastic of the top and requires some effort to remove, leaving sometimes a black spot. Some baby powder or a little - little! - WD40 could prevent this. Spots are easy to remove anyway.

 

I put SS fender washers under my screw heads. No cracks so far.

 

i cracked mine the first time i put the top back on. i used 3/8" unistrut washers. problem solved! available at home depot or your local electrical supply house.

 

You'll need to check the length of your bolts length. 3/8" isn't going to leave much room four error. A good safety margin is four threads under the fastener.

 

3/8" refers to the size of bolt that will fit in the hole. it dosen't refer to the thickness of the washer. unistrut washers come in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" and they are all the same 1/4" thickness. there are plenty of threads to hold the top on.