Having Battery Drain Problem
10-06-2017, 05:33 PM
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Having Battery Drain Problem
2015 JKR with 430 Radio
After being shut off for several hours the battery will drain down so low that the dash lights won't come on. For short amounts of time, say to go grocery shopping, it will start up fine. After testing if any of my accessories drew current when shut off and that checked out okay I brought it to the dealership. They tell me what AutoZone had already confirmed that my alternator, starter, and Battery are all in good health. They also tell me nothing is wrong with the vehicle and the problem must be something I installed.
So I disconnect the positive cable on the battery and insert a multimeter and measure current after the engine had been shut off for 15 minutes. It draws around 3 amps. I slowly disconnect every accessory that I've installed. Positive and negative. The current doesn't change. I go through the fuses and when I get to M12 ( amp / radio ) the Jeep draws 1.37 amps less. Also when I pull the M13 fuse ( IOD-CCN, WCM, SIREN, CLK MOD, MULTIFCTN SW, I TW, WIN ) it draws .6 less amps. I don't know what most of those mean.
Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know where to find a user-friendly wiring diagram to troubleshoot this further?
After being shut off for several hours the battery will drain down so low that the dash lights won't come on. For short amounts of time, say to go grocery shopping, it will start up fine. After testing if any of my accessories drew current when shut off and that checked out okay I brought it to the dealership. They tell me what AutoZone had already confirmed that my alternator, starter, and Battery are all in good health. They also tell me nothing is wrong with the vehicle and the problem must be something I installed.
So I disconnect the positive cable on the battery and insert a multimeter and measure current after the engine had been shut off for 15 minutes. It draws around 3 amps. I slowly disconnect every accessory that I've installed. Positive and negative. The current doesn't change. I go through the fuses and when I get to M12 ( amp / radio ) the Jeep draws 1.37 amps less. Also when I pull the M13 fuse ( IOD-CCN, WCM, SIREN, CLK MOD, MULTIFCTN SW, I TW, WIN ) it draws .6 less amps. I don't know what most of those mean.
Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know where to find a user-friendly wiring diagram to troubleshoot this further?
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davisf1969 (11-29-2023)
10-06-2017, 07:22 PM
#2
JK Jedi Master
Here are the details concerning an ignition off draw test. Read them carefully. One point to be aware of is the one about waiting 3 minutes after connecting the ammeter in series to allow the systems to shut down again. Any break in continuity with the ammeter will require another 3 minute waiting period.
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
Electrical items left on.
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes.
2. Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.
3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
4. Set an electronic digital multimeter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multimeter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multimeter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multimeter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, there may be an internal short in the generator. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliamp scale of the multimeter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliamp scale selected, or the multimeter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multimeter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamp (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamp, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in STEP 5. The multimeter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
Electrical items left on.
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes.
2. Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.
3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
4. Set an electronic digital multimeter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multimeter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multimeter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multimeter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, there may be an internal short in the generator. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliamp scale of the multimeter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliamp scale selected, or the multimeter may be damaged.
6. Observe the multimeter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamp (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamp, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in STEP 5. The multimeter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
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Teardrop (12-23-2019)
10-07-2017, 12:14 AM
#3
JK Freak
X's 2 on what he said. Your Jeep has to go to sleep so all of the systems will shut down before performing a draw down test. Disconnect the door harnesses so the interior lights won't come on while you're crawling around in or out of the Jeep. That will wake it up. I don't know if this goes for the newer Jeeps or not, but some newer cars will wake up whenever the ignition key gets within a certain range. I believe this is for the keyless type/push button start vehicles, but I'm not completely sure.
I'd bet money that it's your radio. I've been having the same problem for a few years with my '07. Went through all of the hassle of disconnecting each and every accessory that I have added over the years. It all came down to that factory navigation unit. There are a couple of threads out there that I came across from other owners, having the same issue as well. I swapped my factory navigation radio out for a factory non-navi radio, and the issue finally went away. My Jeep isn't my every day vehicle, and sees less than 1000 miles per year. I added a Battery Tender Plus to keep the battery healthy. It constantly shows green, meaning it's charged. I have a Jeep trip to Marble Falls planned in two weeks, and I reinstalled my factory navi radio because I use the bread crumbs function while out on the trails at night. The Battery Tender is now constantly flashing yellow at me, meaning it's charging. The Battery Tender puts out 1.25 amps, and even that's not enough to overcome the draw of the radio. What sucks is, my Jeep didn't even come with factory navigation. I bought the radio off of another Jeep owner a few years back. I didn't connect the dots, as I wouldn't think a factory item would malfunction the way it has. I had honestly forgotten about it completely until I finally did the draw down test.
Let us know how it goes. If that's what it ends up being, you could find yourself a factory CD only radio for pretty cheap to hold you over. If you're still under warranty, prove your findings to the dealership. Pictures and proof of other owners having the same issues. They absolutely hate dealing with electrical gremlins. Back when I was trying to track down my issue, they told me it would probably cost two full days of labor, performing a leak down on it. This was before I had done my homework. I'm not an electrical guru by any means. Hope this helps!
I'd bet money that it's your radio. I've been having the same problem for a few years with my '07. Went through all of the hassle of disconnecting each and every accessory that I have added over the years. It all came down to that factory navigation unit. There are a couple of threads out there that I came across from other owners, having the same issue as well. I swapped my factory navigation radio out for a factory non-navi radio, and the issue finally went away. My Jeep isn't my every day vehicle, and sees less than 1000 miles per year. I added a Battery Tender Plus to keep the battery healthy. It constantly shows green, meaning it's charged. I have a Jeep trip to Marble Falls planned in two weeks, and I reinstalled my factory navi radio because I use the bread crumbs function while out on the trails at night. The Battery Tender is now constantly flashing yellow at me, meaning it's charging. The Battery Tender puts out 1.25 amps, and even that's not enough to overcome the draw of the radio. What sucks is, my Jeep didn't even come with factory navigation. I bought the radio off of another Jeep owner a few years back. I didn't connect the dots, as I wouldn't think a factory item would malfunction the way it has. I had honestly forgotten about it completely until I finally did the draw down test.
Let us know how it goes. If that's what it ends up being, you could find yourself a factory CD only radio for pretty cheap to hold you over. If you're still under warranty, prove your findings to the dealership. Pictures and proof of other owners having the same issues. They absolutely hate dealing with electrical gremlins. Back when I was trying to track down my issue, they told me it would probably cost two full days of labor, performing a leak down on it. This was before I had done my homework. I'm not an electrical guru by any means. Hope this helps!
11-12-2017, 02:19 PM
#4
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Finally found the problem. A while back I got a backup camera that includes a harness that plugs into the back of the factory radio to activate it. It interfaces with the can bus to activate the camera so I don't have to take the Jeep down to the dealership and have them activate the camera feature. I've removed the harness and the problem went away. This is the camera system Jeep Wrangler Rear View Camera System (Spare Tire Mount)
11-12-2017, 02:49 PM
#5
JK Freak
Glad you found the issue! I wish it were that easy for mine! I took out the factory navigation radio and put the “basic cable” radio in to fix my issue. I would sell it, but I don’t want to burden someone else with that problem, guess I’ll just toss it in the trash.
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Teardrop (12-23-2019)