Headlight adjustment again
I did a search and actually found what I wanted to know, almost. I found out you are supposed to turn the torx screws counter clockwise. What I was wondering now is how much do you turn the screws? Is one full turn to much or not enough? I realize I have to take it out and see how they are set, but what am I looking for? Where should they be pointed?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Tools you will need -
A very dark area with a vertical wall you can drive right up to and about 25-35 feet of level room, measured perpendicular to the wall
Chalk (for drawing on the wall)
Cardboard or similar opaque material (to cover lights not being adjusted)
Tools for adjusting lights
A tape measure (or similar)
Prep the car –
Fill the gas tank
Equalize tire pressure
Put a normal load in the car (your weight in the driver’s seat + weight for any regular passengers)
Initial positioning of the car –
Put the car’s nose right up close and perpendicular to the wall
Rock the car side to side to level the suspension
Mark the wall –
Line "A" - Vertical, at the center (measured side-to-side) of the car
Line "B" - Horizontal, at the same height as the vertical centers of the headlights
Lines "C" - Vertical, at the horizontal centers of each lamp (2 lamps = 2 lines, 3 lamps = 3 lines, etc.)
Line "D" - Horizontal, parallel to Line "B", 3 inches below "B"
Final positioning of the car –
Keeping the car perpendicular to the wall, back it up until the lights are 25 feet away from the wall
Keep the engine running fast enough (and probably the heater, too)
Aiming the Low Beams –
Turn on the low beams
Cover one side (you'll be adjusting the other side)
Turn the adjusting screws on the uncovered light so that the top edge of the light beam is at Line "D" and the angled cut-off point is centered on the intersection of Lines "C" and "D" (see illustration)
Move the cover to the side you just adjusted and repeat for the (now) uncovered side

This will give you a good initial aim. You should "tweak" it if, after driving for a while, the low beams seem to be too high (or too low). Now comes the balancing act - trying to avoid shining your new (brighter) lights in someone's eyes, but giving yourself the best (highest) light pattern possible.
A very dark area with a vertical wall you can drive right up to and about 25-35 feet of level room, measured perpendicular to the wall
Chalk (for drawing on the wall)
Cardboard or similar opaque material (to cover lights not being adjusted)
Tools for adjusting lights
A tape measure (or similar)
Prep the car –
Fill the gas tank
Equalize tire pressure
Put a normal load in the car (your weight in the driver’s seat + weight for any regular passengers)
Initial positioning of the car –
Put the car’s nose right up close and perpendicular to the wall
Rock the car side to side to level the suspension
Mark the wall –
Line "A" - Vertical, at the center (measured side-to-side) of the car
Line "B" - Horizontal, at the same height as the vertical centers of the headlights
Lines "C" - Vertical, at the horizontal centers of each lamp (2 lamps = 2 lines, 3 lamps = 3 lines, etc.)
Line "D" - Horizontal, parallel to Line "B", 3 inches below "B"
Final positioning of the car –
Keeping the car perpendicular to the wall, back it up until the lights are 25 feet away from the wall
Keep the engine running fast enough (and probably the heater, too)
Aiming the Low Beams –
Turn on the low beams
Cover one side (you'll be adjusting the other side)
Turn the adjusting screws on the uncovered light so that the top edge of the light beam is at Line "D" and the angled cut-off point is centered on the intersection of Lines "C" and "D" (see illustration)
Move the cover to the side you just adjusted and repeat for the (now) uncovered side

This will give you a good initial aim. You should "tweak" it if, after driving for a while, the low beams seem to be too high (or too low). Now comes the balancing act - trying to avoid shining your new (brighter) lights in someone's eyes, but giving yourself the best (highest) light pattern possible.


