Help with coolant and AC
#11
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Ok I appreciate the responses. Extremely detailed.
Can the thermostat be replaced after the dealer flushes? Maybe I can get them to do the hoses but then I can just do the thermostat myself after or would that introduce air back into the system?
I paid $90 for an EGR valve but once again sticking to the service manual exactly if not preventively in a lot of cases.
Can the thermostat be replaced after the dealer flushes? Maybe I can get them to do the hoses but then I can just do the thermostat myself after or would that introduce air back into the system?
I paid $90 for an EGR valve but once again sticking to the service manual exactly if not preventively in a lot of cases.
#12
Super Moderator
You can do the thermostat post fluid flush but it will introduce air into the system. I'm with you on preventative maintenance so I flushed my radiator and didn't have any problems getting the air out. In addition to the tips above, I also jacked the front passenger side up to make the fill port on the radiator the highest point in my system. It didn't take terribly long to get the air out and the system hasn't had any problems since the flush.
The petc0ck that was mentioned- it sucks. It's plastic and so is the radiator. There is a small o-ring on there and it only takes 90* turn to remove it. I thought I goobered my petc0ck because it would slowly leak after heating up but it just wasn't seated all the way upon reinstallation. I won't pull that plug again even though I have an extra one, brand new, in my toolbox. I'd rather pull the lower hose.
This is also a good time to pull your coolant reservoir from the vehicle and clean out the bottom of it. The bottom of my 2010 had all sorts of dirt/ debris, which I gather from Ron's posts is casting sand from when our 3.8's were manufactured.
The petc0ck that was mentioned- it sucks. It's plastic and so is the radiator. There is a small o-ring on there and it only takes 90* turn to remove it. I thought I goobered my petc0ck because it would slowly leak after heating up but it just wasn't seated all the way upon reinstallation. I won't pull that plug again even though I have an extra one, brand new, in my toolbox. I'd rather pull the lower hose.
This is also a good time to pull your coolant reservoir from the vehicle and clean out the bottom of it. The bottom of my 2010 had all sorts of dirt/ debris, which I gather from Ron's posts is casting sand from when our 3.8's were manufactured.
#13
JK Jedi
Bleading the system is not a big deal at all. All you're doing is letting air bubbles escape at the radiator cap, and pouring in a little fluid as that happens......and continuing until no more air bubbles come out.
#14
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by resharp001
Bleading the system is not a big deal at all. All you're doing is letting air bubbles escape at the radiator cap, and pouring in a little fluid as that happens......and continuing until no more air bubbles come out.
I will change upper and lower hoses along with the thermostat. Then the above quote of bleeding and getting the bubbles out.
That should be enough to get it to the dealer for their coolant flush and whatever it is they do which is most likely half ass and nothing more than draining it and filling it back up.
#15
JK Enthusiast
Something to consider if replacing hoses, thermostat, and flushing radiator is possibly time to change water pump. Mine only lasted 50K before it started to leak.
#16
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by hornetman
Something to consider if replacing hoses, thermostat, and flushing radiator is possibly time to change water pump. Mine only lasted 50K before it started to leak.