How can you say that when the OP is very clearly dealing with pushrods that have come out from under their rocker arms?

I think you may find the following description interesting. It's from the 2008 JK factory service manual.

The 3.8 Liter (231 cu. in.) engine is 60° V-6 engines with cast iron cylinder block and aluminum cylinder heads. The engine uses a single, block mounted camshaft, roller lifters with push rods to actuate the valves. The engine does not have provisions for a free wheeling valve train.

The firing order is 1–2–3–4–5–6. The left cylinder bank is numbered 2, 4, and 6. The right cylinder bank is numbered 1, 3, and 5.





It sure looks like the cam is in the block on this JK 3.8L engine.

 

You are right , my bad . Inserting foot into mouth and taking a shit shower now. For whatever reason I was thinking of the 3.7. I should have thought before I typed. Please ignore my ignorance.

 

Last night I pulled a couple spark plugs and sent my new $21 USB camera into the cylinders to have a look. There is some carbon buildup on the top of the pistons, but not too bad. Most importantly, I did not see any strike marks or any evidence that the pistons made contact with the intake valves. On the plus side, the bores were nice ans shiny with no real visible scratches along the bore. Also, the penetrating oil is starting to work on the last stuck valve. It's not coming down right away, but it is moving on it's own. Hopefully it just needs a little more oil and time.
Right now my plan is to replace all the intake rocker arms and pushrods (three of the rockers were broken and many of the pushrods are dinged on the ends) and keep applying the penetrating oil until that last valve moves freely. I'm also going to drop the gas tank, remove the gas that's in there and wash it out with a gallon or two of new gas. I'll also take a look at the fuel filter and perhaps replace it.
Any recommendations for fuel additives to help clean any remaining film off the valve stems and perhaps lubricate them in the process? Marvel Mystery Oil has been suggested, as well as Sea Foam. (It was suggested that I add either of those to the gas and the oil.) Of course there is also injector cleaner, but someone also suggested adding a little diesel to the fuel to help lube the valve stems. Any other ideas, suggestions, or comments?
Assuming that this works and I get it running again, I'll check compression after running a tank or two new gas through it.
Thanks again for your help. I owe you one.

 

The 3.8 is actually not an interference engine, if I'm not mistaken. It's been debated in the past with conflicting information. I believe the correct conclusion is that it's not an interference engine. I don't want to hijack this thread but I'm definitely interested in a definitive conclusion to understand how imperative timing chain maintenance would be down the line. My girlfriend has an '01 civic with an interference engine and is currently paying about $500 for a timing belt/water pump service. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...2007-a-314885/

 

This is from my post above, which was taken from the 2008 JK Factory Service Manual:

The [3.8L] engine does not have provisions for a free wheeling valve train.

To the best of my knowledge, that means a piston can extend into an area occupied by a valve if the cam is not properly timed.
I realize the book could be wrong. I have been lucky with mine and have not had to take it apart. If I have to at some point in the future, I'll look at it for sure.

 

I'd be curious to see what article is cited in the old thread