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Stock JK Tech Bulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.

How do you KEEP the JK running FOREVER?

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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 10:55 PM
  #11  
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I'd like to see some input as to where people's engines were assembled.

Mine was assembled in Trenton.
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:15 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RN M OVR
Reputation has it the 4.0L is bullet proof. I know. I had a TJ. Not sure if I'm speaking too soon, but we haven't seen just how far the 3.8L can go. Perhaps it's just as good or better or worse than the 4.0L TJ. I don't know.................

Any other advice, thoughts, opinions, comments, and tips are very much appreciated.
First thing you have to know is everything wears out. As other people have stated lubrication reduces friction therefore wear. So proper lubing is essential to longevity. Oil, gear lube, and any other fluid changes are your best protection but changing your fluids every thousand miles is just wasting money also.

If you want to run your JK forever then buy spare parts cheap as you can find great deals. For example, you can find engines and trannies for $600. Let the other guy spend tens of thousands on a Hemi and dana 60 running gear.
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by genesbro
Synthetic oil
Mopar or Motorcraft oil filters
Flush the coolant system 3-4 years
Flush the brake fluid 3-4 years

I would do at least those things.
X2 to that, and don't forget the grease, slippery is better.
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 03:41 AM
  #14  
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Default Fyi

The not driving thing.. keeping miles low only works on high end cars.. BMW/PORSCHE/BENZ and obviously higher than that.

Domestic and even a high end VW -- low miles on blue/black book only bumps value few hundred .. compared to thousands on an exotic.

So drive the beast!
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 04:44 AM
  #15  
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I don't believe the 4.0L to be bullet proof either... know people with Cherokees who lost em.. guess nothings perfect!
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 06:47 AM
  #16  
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Default Initial friction on startup

I've heard (from Two Guys Garage on Speed TV) that most engine wear occurs on the crankshaft journals and other bearing surfaces on startup. Once the crank is spinning it is not really coming in contact with the metalic surfaces as it 'floats' in a film of oil. Any way to minimize startup friction, especially if your Jeep sits for days at a time without being started?
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:40 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
I'd like to see some input as to where people's engines were assembled.

Mine was assembled in Trenton.
I apologize ahead of time if this is a stupid question, but how do you find out where your engine was assembled?
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:43 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Jay Kay
I apologize ahead of time if this is a stupid question, but how do you find out where your engine was assembled?
X2 Thanks
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:45 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jay Kay
I apologize ahead of time if this is a stupid question, but how do you find out where your engine was assembled?

Originally Posted by JKOIIIOJK
X2 Thanks

x3 thanks....

Last edited by gadget799; Nov 28, 2010 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #20  
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I have added this to the engine oil threads:

The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.

The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.

S = Saltillo
T = Trenton

Check your engines. Maybe we can see if the plant location has anything to do with engine failures.

Mine was assembled in Trenton.
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