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Stock JK TechBulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.
Yep, this problem will be a big problem for a young tech... But ill give you something to check, get access to the cps sensor by the firewall (rear of valve cover), more then likely the passenger side. Unplug connector and check the wires at the closet point to the connector on the harness side. I have had these break and cause intermittent faults, the rubber part looks fine but the wire breaks inside the insulation, give all three wires a good tug and see if the insulation shows signs of internal wire breakage, if thats the problem just replace connector and add some more slack to the wiring to the connector, clear codes and drive it. If that doesn't fix it then replace the passenger side exhaust camshaft, but check that wiring first.
I'm having some massive issues with my Jeep. Its a 2012 JK 3.6. I bought it at a used car lot with 63,000km on it in March. It has 72,000 KM on it today. I'm going to cut and paste my notes about the issues i've been having in hopes that something similar has come up. I've done a massive amount of research and I've seen posts of 3.8 JKs and TJ's throwing P0344 codes but nothing on the 3.6 JK. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. I live 86km away from work and this is becoming a massive stress inducer.
I've put a 2" budget boost & 15" wheels with 33" tires on. That is the only significant modification I've made to the Jeep that may have affected this situation.
This is the order of events that have happened with my Jeep regarding this issue: I apologize that its verbose, I'm just trying to give as much info as possible.
June 2nd: I brought the Jeep into my local mechanic shop to have the oil changed.
June 8th: On way home from work the jeep was going 110km/h in cruise control. About 20km down the highway on the way home the CEL & traction control lights came on, cruise control turned off and there was a power surge. The vehicle continued to operate but was in a “failsafe” mode. I was unable to engage cruise control and the vehicle would not go over approximately 3200RPM. I drove it to my Father’s house about 30km total distance driven in the failsafe mode. After inspection the engine bay and underneath the vehicle at my Fathers I noticed that the coolant reservoir was almost empty. I went to Canadian Tire and purchased a Jeep recommended coolant and topped it up. This was unsuccessful at solving the issue. I checked the engine code and got code P0344. I looked up the code on the internet and found that it was a Cam Position Sensor that was the likely culprit of the issue.
June 9th: The next day I stopped in to my local Dodge Dealership to purchase a replacement CPS. After work I replaced the sensor. 15 km down the highway the CEL & traction control lights came on and the identical serious of events from June 8th repeated. I drove the Jeep home, once home I read on this forum that some members had to disconnect the battery overnight to “reset” the CPU to get rid of the CEL code from returning.
June 10th: After having the battery disconnected over night, I drove to work in the AM. About 15km down the highway the CEL & traction control lights came on and the identical series of events from the 8th & 9th repeated. After getting to work I drove the Jeep to the dealership. I spoke with the service department and explained the entire series of events to him and left the vehicle with them. I received a call in the PM that the Jeep was fixed. I was given a very vague explanation of a ground fault in the electrical systems and that it had been fixed. I paid a $80.80 diagnostics fee and left. I got about 25km down the highway and the CEL & traction control lights came on and the identical series of events from the 3 previous times repeated itself.
June 11th: I brought the vehicle back to the dealership to have them look at it again. In the afternoon they called to explain that they found the issue. They reported that my local mechanic shop had “badly damaged” the oil filter adapter on June 2nd and it was causing a low oil pressure reading. They recommended the entire Oil Filter Adapter be replaced. I agreed to the work. The mechanic notes indicate that after the work was done the vehicle was driven and the code didn’t return.
June 14th: The dealership called to inform me that my Jeep was fixed and the oil filter adapter unit had been replaced. I asked them to keep the broken adapter and the check valve on the plastic tower in the middle was in fact broken and missing. I was charged $1473.39 which included $756.25 in labour. On my way home from Edmonton, approximately 15-20km outside of Edmonton the CEL & traction control lights came back on and the series of events as noted above repeated themselves.
June 15th: I brought the vehicle back to the dealership. They indicated that they would look at it and again diagnose the issue. Later that afternoon because the issue had not been found or solved as the mechanics at the dealership were unable to find the cause of the issue.. It was explained to me that the dealership had opened communications with Chrysler Engineers to help diagnose the issue.
June 16th: The dealership called to explain that no one there was able to replicate the issue. I was told they put over 100km on my Jeep with no success in replicating the CEL coming on. They actually asked if I would come down and drive it myself with a co-pilot hooked up to the CPU and get the CEL to turn on.
June 17th: I got to the dealership and even after seeing on the notes that the issues only presents itself at highway speeds, the tech was not informed of this and only got the Jeep to 90km/h After less than 20km the CEL & traction control lights came on and the series of events described above happened again. After recording the event on the co-pilot I drove the Jeep back to the dealership. They said that he would have to send the information from the co-pilot to the Chrysler Engineers to help diagnose the issue.
June 20th: In the afternoon after not hearing from the dealership all day I called and they simply explained that they had not heard anything from the engineers and nothing had been resolved.
June 21st: The dealership called to explain that they recommended that I get the oil changed based on a recommendation by their technician. (As if an oil change is the top of my priority list) I explained that the oil had been changed on the 2nd and I did not need another oil change. He also explained that they would not be paying for my the rental vehicle I’ve been in as of the end of the day today. No response yet from Chrysler’s engineers.
June 27: The Dealership called and explained that she heard from the engineers. They want to replace the Cam Position Sensor plug to direct wire the sensor to the CPU. She said this is not guaranteed to work but it will allow them to know if it is a electrical or mechanical issue.
June 28: The dealership called to inform me that they replaced the plug, took it for a test drive and the CEL & traction control lights came back on. She explained that Chrysler’s engineers recommended inspecting the cam shafts themselves for damage. They hinted that the broken part from the Oil Filter Adapter may have found its way into the engine head (I find this hard to believe but I told them to go ahead and look)
Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? Its been 3 weeks and I'm starting to lose my patience!
It’s been some time since you posted this. I’d love to know if you ever found the solution. I’m having the exact same issue with my 2013. No one is able to figure it out. Please let me know.
I bought the Jeep a year ago and have had this happen five times, ruining several trips.
The dealer just keeps replacing the sensor, isn't it obvious something else is going on? Damn computers...
Hi guys, I have a 2014 JKU. I have been having the same problems with the voltage spike and erratic dash lights, cruise control not working... we tested for parasitic draw, checked all a grounds with a fine tooth comb, cleaned battery, tested alternator and battery and here is what I have for you... Unfortunately it is the voltage regulator which is located inside the PCM. Quite the expensive fix. I hope this helps everyone! good luck!
Yep. Most new vehicles use the PCM as the voltage regulator. I found this out when I put a 6.4 hemi in a 72 Cuda. I was trying to figure out how to control the alternator.
It’s been some time since you posted this. I’d love to know if you ever found the solution. I’m having the exact same issue with my 2013. No one is able to figure it out. Please let me know.
same. My 2014 WK2 Overland is having these issues described by the op. I have so far replaced spark plugs, coil on #3 cylinder (was having misfiring codes), camshaft sensor, service and now am getting the intake cam phaser at bank 1 replaced. I actually went out and bought my own code reader because of how often this occurs. Anyway, the CEL codes that come up when the car shifts itself into limp mode on my vehicle are P0369, U1424, and P1DD2. Mine is usually activated after I've been driving for some time on the highway or at 45-50mph. It seems to be triggered when shifting in and out of 7th gear (whether it be 8th to 7th, or 6th to 7th). I have also noticed it happens when the car has sat outside all day in blazing hot sun and higher temps (+80°) so it must have something to do with the temperature of the oil or other fluid temp that can trigger the issue to occur.
The stealership told me the next "fix" will be replacing the intake cam phaser at bank 1. I'm having that repaired now but not sure what I will have to look into next if this doesn't resolve issue.
I have noticed that keeping the transmission in sport (S) mode prevents the vehicle from going into 7th gear if i keep it under 70mph, and this usually will help me get through a longer trip without having to pull over and deal with the CEL limp mode headache.
Also, when my car goes into limp mode, I simply pull over to shoulder, turn ignition off, and then start it again and can drive normal speeds without the engine keeping me under 4th gear. The CEL will still be on but usually will shut itself off when it decides its ready but it's just a matter of time before it happens again. I have also reset light which let me drive a further distance without the issue reoccurring as often as it would when driving with the CEL illuminated. I recently took a 500 mile trip so this tip saved me in the short term and allowed me to get there and back. Tried this per dealership but no fix and did not resolve. Cost $300 to take apart and find bolts were not loose.
Last edited by acarr7387; 08-13-2020 at 05:37 AM.
Reason: won't l
Well, I’ve now replaced the camshaft sensor A, wiring, pcm board, both VVT sensors on side A,....
nothing. This is ridiculous.
Benton did you look at this service bulletin? Stealership thought this was what may be causing my issues but all looked good after they took everything apart ($270) so now they believe it is the intake cam phaser at bank 1 which is a $500 fix. I have not yet done this since my mechanic doesn't have the tools and said it can only be done through dealer....
Just posted the update to my Posting of what the Dealer Tech showed my son and I today...Metal Debris created wear in the Intake lobs and bearing caps holding the CAM. The wear and score marks are creating a loss in Oil Pressure on Bank-1 and in turn the Exhaust Phaser is trying to sync and keep oil pressure, but unable to. The metal debris is throughout the Engine and it's junk...SUCKS, 2014 JK in very good condition and need a new motor now. Tech told me he has seen this with 3.6Lt that have 30k, 50k, 70k, 100k, +150k miles...older 3.6Lt engine had (2) Different Suppliers machining the Intakes, wonder if that's part of the "Ticking" issue that happens which is the Rocker failure.
Picture shows the Metal Debris:
Benton did you look at this service bulletin? Stealership thought this was what may be causing my issues but all looked good after they took everything apart ($270) so now they believe it is the intake cam phaser at bank 1 which is a $500 fix. I have not yet done this since my mechanic doesn't have the tools and said it can only be done through dealer....
Ok. Took the valve cover off and was only able to get a half turn on those bolts. The mechanic mentions he was able to read the cvv sensors with his computer but her wasn’t getting anything from either camshaft sensor. Both are new and have been replaced several times. This is nuts
03-27-2019, 02:14 PM
