warlord

Since i seem to fly around on the highways quite a bit im trying to isolate the problem

i really dont think its castor related
i notice when the jeep is off i can turn the wheel about 2 inches before i feel tension and about another inch past the tension before i see the tires move.

I hade my wife turn the wheel while i crawled underneith to look.

Everything seem real tight all levers, bars, and colums move at exactly the same moments. Nothing moves with a gap before the rest of the pieces do

so i think the problem is somewhere between the s- wheel and the power box

im at work tho so i cant look at it till tomarrow

and pics would really help with explanations

ronjenx

I just went out and tried this.
I got the same results. An approximately 2" free play, then a little more into the resistance to see the tire just start to move. No really loose free play; just an easier to move 2"

Started the engine. The free play area decreased to very little, and I can see the tire just starting to move, except for the very smallest start of steering wheel movement.

See how yours behaves with the engine running.

edit to add:

Toe and/or caster are very likely to cause it to "fly around on the highway".
I say this based on your observation that nothing is loose in your front end components.

Tire pressure could be a factor, too.

No1AP

I'm sure this probably doesn't help, but my buddies pitman arm had wallowed out at the steering box. BUUUUUTTT... it was definitly visible when you turned the steering wheel sooooo, this probably doesn't help... Just a thought.

warlord

alright i went out to fiddle with it again

this time i opened the hood and twisted the steering colum by hand(motor off)

and it does twist like 10deg

so the looseness is somewhere inside the steering box itself.
not really a user servicable item

so untill i replace it im kinda stuck with that pos


do they make aftermarket steering boxed for these things yet

longshank

I had this, there is adjustment on top of the steering box, you will see a nut with a allen head screw inside, this adjusts the float of the shaft in the box, i turned mine 270 deg, to remove the slack, now steering is more precise, but be carful, do not over tighten it, there is a correct way to set this up no doubt, but i do it by feel through experience.

blockrockin

I'm having similar steering issues... i just got back from quadratec and they do have a psc steering box for the jk... but it isn't cheap... but even the stock one for the 4 door is around 500 bucks

Hellbound13

Welcome to JK steering. The nut on top of the box IS NOT supposed to be adjusted with the box installed in the Jeep. You can wreck your steering.

I just replaced my box with a brand new OEM. They have changed the box, it is now made in China. Not a Saginaw anymore either. The steering is still loose. Everything appears to be tight and at this point I have just learned to live with it.

On mine it feels like it could be in the steering shaft/column.

The PSC is only for Hydro Assist as far as I know. Unless PSC came out with a replacement heavy duty box??

ronjenx

The adjustment screw on the top of the steering box can't be correctly adjusted through feel and experience.
There are measurements of torque to turn the shaft that are required to properly set up the steering box.

The torque wrench used is a dial or beam that will measure as low as a few inch pounds.

From the service manual:

NOTE: Adjusting the steering gear in the vehicle is not recommended. Remove gear from the vehicle and drain the fluid. Then mount gear in a vise to perform adjustments.

OVER-CENTER


1. Rotate the stub shaft with Socket 8343 from stop to stop and count the number of turns.
2. Center the stub shaft by rotating it from the stop 1/2 of the total amount of turns.
3. Place torque wrench and Socket 8343 in a vertical position on the stub shaft. Rotate the wrench 45 degrees each side of the center and record the highest rotational torque in this range. This is the Over-Center Rotating Torque. NOTE: The stub shaft must rotate smoothly without sticking or binding.

4. Rotate the stub shaft between 90° and 180° to the left of center and record the left off-center preload. Repeat this to the right of center and record the right off-center preload. The average of these two recorded readings is the Preload Rotating Torque.
5. The Over-Center Rotating Torque should be 0.45-0.80 N·m (4-7 in. lbs.) higher than the Preload Rotating Torque.
6. If an adjustment to the Over-Center Rotating Torque is necessary, first loosen the adjuster lock nut. Then turn the pitman shaft adjuster screw back (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) until fully extended, then turn back in (CLOCKWISE) one full turn.
7. Remeasure Over-Center Rotating Torque. If necessary turn the adjuster screw and repeat measurement until correct Over-Center Rotating Torque is reached. NOTE: To increase the Over-Center Rotating Torque turn the screw CLOCKWISE.

8. Prevent the adjuster screw from turning while tightening adjuster lock nut. Tighten the adjuster lock nut to 37-52 N·m (27-38 ft. lbs.).


edit to add:

Hellbound, you posted while I was composing. I was wondering if you were going to respond to this thread.

warlord

Can i say wow!
Nice description but i think its going to be waaay over my head to somethig like that myself

do you think this could be somethig that i can take to sears automotive to get fixed. Or will it be a more of a certified mechs job?

longshank

As i said, "there is a correct way to do this" as in what the service manual says, but when the box is slacker than a wizards sleeve, taking the huge amount of shaft float out helps, theres a big difference between, "feel" and turning it till it stops, and locking it up.
Perhaps i should have said, if you are not a qualified experienced mechanic, then take it to someone who is.