My Fuel Pump Change
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
My Fuel Pump Change
Just wanted to throw some info up on changing the fuel pump.
I have a 2009 JKUR with 93,300miles.
In the last month my Jeep has left me twice stranded, but funny enough the only 2 times were on long trips over 150 miles. The first time it happened I basically lost all power on I-10 and when you would throttle down the Jeep would just buck. The first time this happened I had the jeep towed to a dealership, the Jeep showed no codes, and they drove it for 40+ miles the next day, unable to find any problem. So I had them service the transmission and that was that, I drove the jeep home, no problems.
About 3 weeks later I took another long trip in excess of 150miles and I ended up with the same bucking. So with the first experience in mind I left the Jeep on the side of the road over night. I came back the next day and drove the Jeep home, about 10 miles with no issue.
I decided at this point I was going to figure this out, I was tired of being stranded. The tell-tell sign was this: With the jeep in park or neutral you could hold the accelerator at 3000-3500rpms and then it would slowly drop out to 500rpms, with out moving the throttle. SO It was either fuel pump or a faulty pedal, I betted fuel pump and now a week later I think I am right. I have taken a long trip one way 280miles, with no issue. I will make the return trip next week. While I was at it, I changed plugs, went to a Screamin Demon Coil and Livewires. These items clean up the responsiveness but my advice is don't buy this until you need it. (ie time to change plugs, or develop a miss)
Okay so some details on the Fuel Pump Change (I didn't take any pics, but hopefully a few words will help others)
1) I have a 4.5" LA sitting on approx. 34" tires.
2) I put the rear of the jeep on standard drive up ramps
3) there are 8 bolts, 18mm which will drop the skid and tank at the same time (empty your tank some sorta way, with the gas light on, it still weighs about 60#) The transfer case skid will need to be dropped as well.
4) before you do this loosen the 2 hose clamps (located about mid-jeep looking from the rear) on the filler line and pop it loose.
5) I brought the tank down on two mop buckets, and used tie-wire to keep it safely at this level.
6) The fuel pump is in the middle of the tank!! The similar looking device at the rear of the tank is vapor recovery or something.
7) The electrical connection is slide the red tab, pinch the grey trigger and pull
8) The fuel line disconnect is squeeze the blue tabs and pull
9) Used a screwdriver and hammer and tap the lock-ring CCW to release the pump, the pump is spring loaded it will pop up and the ring will be a separate piece. (The fuel level float is toward the front of the vehicle)
10) Clean about the lock ring before and after you remove the pump, I used a shop-vac but this is not the safest thing - it will exhaust and elite amount of fuel vapor where ever your shop-vac exhaust is pointed.
11) Pop in the new pump with a new O-ring, install the lock ring in reverse, pop the electrical and fuel line connections back on (you will reuse the blue keeper from the fuel line connection.) You can get it off the old pump easily with a tiny flat head screwdriver.
12) Put the tank back, and skids.... VRMMMM VRMMMM
I have a 2009 JKUR with 93,300miles.
In the last month my Jeep has left me twice stranded, but funny enough the only 2 times were on long trips over 150 miles. The first time it happened I basically lost all power on I-10 and when you would throttle down the Jeep would just buck. The first time this happened I had the jeep towed to a dealership, the Jeep showed no codes, and they drove it for 40+ miles the next day, unable to find any problem. So I had them service the transmission and that was that, I drove the jeep home, no problems.
About 3 weeks later I took another long trip in excess of 150miles and I ended up with the same bucking. So with the first experience in mind I left the Jeep on the side of the road over night. I came back the next day and drove the Jeep home, about 10 miles with no issue.
I decided at this point I was going to figure this out, I was tired of being stranded. The tell-tell sign was this: With the jeep in park or neutral you could hold the accelerator at 3000-3500rpms and then it would slowly drop out to 500rpms, with out moving the throttle. SO It was either fuel pump or a faulty pedal, I betted fuel pump and now a week later I think I am right. I have taken a long trip one way 280miles, with no issue. I will make the return trip next week. While I was at it, I changed plugs, went to a Screamin Demon Coil and Livewires. These items clean up the responsiveness but my advice is don't buy this until you need it. (ie time to change plugs, or develop a miss)
Okay so some details on the Fuel Pump Change (I didn't take any pics, but hopefully a few words will help others)
1) I have a 4.5" LA sitting on approx. 34" tires.
2) I put the rear of the jeep on standard drive up ramps
3) there are 8 bolts, 18mm which will drop the skid and tank at the same time (empty your tank some sorta way, with the gas light on, it still weighs about 60#) The transfer case skid will need to be dropped as well.
4) before you do this loosen the 2 hose clamps (located about mid-jeep looking from the rear) on the filler line and pop it loose.
5) I brought the tank down on two mop buckets, and used tie-wire to keep it safely at this level.
6) The fuel pump is in the middle of the tank!! The similar looking device at the rear of the tank is vapor recovery or something.
7) The electrical connection is slide the red tab, pinch the grey trigger and pull
8) The fuel line disconnect is squeeze the blue tabs and pull
9) Used a screwdriver and hammer and tap the lock-ring CCW to release the pump, the pump is spring loaded it will pop up and the ring will be a separate piece. (The fuel level float is toward the front of the vehicle)
10) Clean about the lock ring before and after you remove the pump, I used a shop-vac but this is not the safest thing - it will exhaust and elite amount of fuel vapor where ever your shop-vac exhaust is pointed.
11) Pop in the new pump with a new O-ring, install the lock ring in reverse, pop the electrical and fuel line connections back on (you will reuse the blue keeper from the fuel line connection.) You can get it off the old pump easily with a tiny flat head screwdriver.
12) Put the tank back, and skids.... VRMMMM VRMMMM
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,907
Likes: 185
From: Maine
Looks like the hardest part would be getting the fuel out of the tank.
For those interested, here is some info on the fuel pump module: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...-study-262093/
For those interested, here is some info on the fuel pump module: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...-study-262093/
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
So far so good. I am headed further away from help to my hunting camp in Arkansas tomorrow. My Jeep also serves as my deer retriever so I will give update the end of next week on any re-occurring issues. I am pretty confident I got this solved.
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JK Junkie
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,343
Likes: 3
From: Amherst, Ohio
I replaced my fuel pump as well, but not because it failed.. well in a way. The top of the pump housing had cracks in it, allowing fuel to seep through, pooling ontop of the tank and filling the garage with fumes. I did this a couple years ago and it fixed my issues as well. I will look for the pictures i took of the process. Hope i still have them.