My JK sounds like a law mower.
#11
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Alright guys, a little more info on the condition of my jeep. I just changed the oil and the level was low I guess it had been a while too long between oil changes which I am guess is at the very least a contributing factor to my problem. I took a video and posted it to youtube here it is. IMG 0023 - YouTube It has been pretty cold recently and it was very cold the night the jeep began making the noise but the car was warmed up.
#13
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
A friend of mine from work who knows a little bit about engines said that it could be a lifter, any idea on what a repair like that might run me? should I bite the bullet and take it to a dealership?
#14
AggressivePooch, I listened to the vid about 10 times from the idle to reving part.
Sounds like a valve train problem which is usually a tapping sound on one of the cylinder heads. Also it appears to be tapping half the speed of the crankshaft, which leads to a valve train problem also.
A connecting rod is usually is a knocking noise which can be heard lower in the block and about the same sound level on both sides of your engine.
So my best guess is a lifter, pushrod, rocker or valve. Or a combo of these.
You can do a compression test on those 4 cylinders. Then I'd remove that valve cover and inspect more.
Did you notice any power loss? Did you check the oil level before you change it? If so, did the sound have any change after?
Keep us posted.
Man, I hope it's only a cracked manifold instead of the other.
Sounds like a valve train problem which is usually a tapping sound on one of the cylinder heads. Also it appears to be tapping half the speed of the crankshaft, which leads to a valve train problem also.
A connecting rod is usually is a knocking noise which can be heard lower in the block and about the same sound level on both sides of your engine.
So my best guess is a lifter, pushrod, rocker or valve. Or a combo of these.
You can do a compression test on those 4 cylinders. Then I'd remove that valve cover and inspect more.
Did you notice any power loss? Did you check the oil level before you change it? If so, did the sound have any change after?
Keep us posted.
Man, I hope it's only a cracked manifold instead of the other.
#15
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
AggressivePooch, I listened to the vid about 10 times from the idle to reving part.
Sounds like a valve train problem which is usually a tapping sound on one of the cylinder heads. Also it appears to be tapping half the speed of the crankshaft, which leads to a valve train problem also.
A connecting rod is usually is a knocking noise which can be heard lower in the block and about the same sound level on both sides of your engine.
So my best guess is a lifter, pushrod, rocker or valve. Or a combo of these.
You can do a compression test on those 4 cylinders. Then I'd remove that valve cover and inspect more.
Did you notice any power loss? Did you check the oil level before you change it? If so, did the sound have any change after?
Keep us posted.
Man, I hope it's only a cracked manifold instead of the other.
Sounds like a valve train problem which is usually a tapping sound on one of the cylinder heads. Also it appears to be tapping half the speed of the crankshaft, which leads to a valve train problem also.
A connecting rod is usually is a knocking noise which can be heard lower in the block and about the same sound level on both sides of your engine.
So my best guess is a lifter, pushrod, rocker or valve. Or a combo of these.
You can do a compression test on those 4 cylinders. Then I'd remove that valve cover and inspect more.
Did you notice any power loss? Did you check the oil level before you change it? If so, did the sound have any change after?
Keep us posted.
Man, I hope it's only a cracked manifold instead of the other.
#16
Thank you, I heard that it could be this from another person at work just from listening. I did not check the oil before changing it but there was no change in the sound after changing it. I have noticed a decent loss in power but I have barely been driving it since only to and from work which is about 5 miles. I take it that this is no quick fix if it is the problem, sounds like a decent amount of head work, any estimate on what repair cost I might be looking at?
Did you buy the Jeep new? They have a 5yr/100k powertrain warranty. If you bought it used, I think the remainder of the warranty is transfered to the new owner.
The Powertrain Limited Warranty lasts for up to
5 years or 100,000 miles on the odometer, whichever
occurs first, calculated from the start date of the
Basic Limited Warranty
Parts Covered:
The Powertrain Limited Warranty covers
these parts and components of your vehicle's
powertrain supplied by Chrysler Group LLC:
Gasoline Engine: cylinder block and all internal
parts; cylinder head assemblies; timing case, timing
chain, timing belt, gears and sprockets; vibration
damper; oil pump; water pump and housing; intake and
exhaust manifolds; flywheel with starter ring gear; core
plugs; valve covers; oil pan; turbocharger housing and
internal parts; turbocharger wastegate actuator;
supercharger; serpentine belt tensioner; seals and
gaskets for listed components only.
#18
JK Super Freak
Broken valve spring? I wouldnt even be driving it 5 miles. You could easily make things worse. You could be looking at a whole new engine if you keep driving it like that.
#19
I had a valve spring go on my '07 and my Jeep wouldn't stay running. It was also throwing codes. To the OP, have you scanned your jeep for any DTCs?