ronjenx

I'm glad this thread was helpful in getting your e-disco working again.

I'm still waiting form mine to fail so I can install the manual version.

Jason-N-Lynn

This is an older post but I can't find what I'm looking for.

I too have had my E-Disco fail. My motor appears to be working fine but there was a ton of corrosion inside the case where the gears are. I've seen video's of folks just cleaning this out and re-greasing but that doesn't address how water got in to begin with so it will just happen again. In my case I know one of my seals between the swaybar and housing is bad. Can these seals and internal parts be replaced? Where would I find the part numbers?

Thanks,
Jason

Mr.T

I haven't had the e-disco apart, but seals are usually a standard size that can be replaced. There's probably a part number and brand on it that can be cross referenced, be careful not to destroy the evidence. If not, it's a matter of searching by size and type. Here's a link to Timken/National catalog http://www.timken.com/pdf/7707_Natio...%20Catalog.pdf

Jason-N-Lynn

Thanks I'll look for numbers on the seals. Now I just need to figure out how the shafts come out. I'm sure I have to get that gear off on the inside somehow.

m4vrick

Hi guys,
So i have same issue as everyone else and decided to go with evo quick disconnect. However i think i have a slightly different issue also which is similar to what another member here posted. On the passenger side the short sway bar seems to be spinning freely from the gear inside the housing. It seems that the gear is stuck the housing somehow. Im assuming the gear and sway bar should be connected together but somehow it broke off? Any way to fix this? can the gear just be welded to the short sway bar so they spin together assuming i can break the gear of the housing somehow?
thanks

ronjenx

I haven't seen a post showing if the other guy fixed his sway bar; the one that the "gear" separated from the shaft. I asked him to post a picture showing how the gear is supposed to be attached to the shaft.

indyphil

Hi guys new member. I love this thread.
Im resurrecting for a few reasons. I bought an 08 rubicon and its a bit of a project, ive made a lot of progress but the smart bar and the dif locks are not currently working.
I got the Jscan tool and app too. Anyway cutting to the chase: I took apart the sway bar mechanicals and it was all corroded and siezed. Cleaned it all out and greased it and it seems to work mechanically (I can push the fork with a tool and springs back)
but when connected to the jeep I get a C2207 code (seems like the little ECM in the sway bar has an error - presumably because the circuit board is fubar from water and corrosion)
Ive ordered the EVO mechanical disconect. But Id love to tear into the motor driven unit and make it work on a button push - even if it means making some kind of arduino circuit to deal with the motor logic (so it doesnt overload the motor if it gets stuck etc...)
However I noticed that there is now a class action suit (started in April) against FCA - im betting best case is an extended warranty to 10 years and 100,000 miles? Id love it if they would replace them but the current design is poorly sealed and i doubt I would be in line to get a replacement with a 2008 and 130,000 miles.
Whaddya think? should I drill out the rivets and start fooling around - assuming I have nothing to lose? I doubt the class action suit will settle anytime too soon anyway and even if it does I doubt I will stand to gain much.

Also is there a link to mods to the diff locks? I gather some people have bypassed the CANBUS and just trigger the relays manually (ignoring the sensor feedback and 4WD selections etc...) I would like to know where those relays are (cant see them in my fuse box)

Mr.T

C2207 is an internal fault code for the swaybar. I've had great results resurrecting electronics from dirty water failures by cleaning circuit boards with alcohol, then allowing to completely dry before testing. There are plenty of other plastic safe electronic cleaners, but alcohol is the cheapest, and is readily available at the hardware store. Use a tooth brush to get all the crud out between pins and traces, and use a magnifier to inspect it. If cleaning works, spraying on a conformal coating afterward will seal the circuit board for the future.

Regarding the diff locks, my manual isn't handy to look up the schematic -- But the absolute best advice is to get the manual. In any case, what are the exact symptoms? For example, is it energizing the coil but not ever getting feedback it's locked (LED stays blinking when pressed)? It's not explained that well in the manual, but blinking means it's not in the commanded position, which could mean it's locked and it hasn't un-locked or vice versa. So normal operation is to press the rocker switch lower half, the relevant dash indicator blinks, and IF it's in 4LO the dash indicator eventually will go solid on when the cogs on the locker line up and it engages.

indyphil

I'll make another thread for the lockers. I haven't tried very much yet but in 4 lo I push the buttons and the lights flash but they dont stop flashing. I have tried rolling forward and back a little but not much. The rear one went solid for a second but as soon as I moved it started flashing again. So it's either having trouble locking or the sensors that tell it the position are not working right. I'll work on it some more. What's this manual you speak of? Shop manual? Sounds like a good idea for me. I will try that on the sway bar and see what I can see.

Mr.T

Yep, factory service manual. In book form, it's actually four large manuals. Ebay will have them if they aren't available new any more. It has the wiring diagrams, connector pinouts, and everything else. Combined with an enhanced scanner like what you already have, you're set.

Stay in touch, hopefully alcohol is the cure .