Is there a write up with pics on how to change oil on the JK? Also, when it says to tighten a bolt to a certain amount of torque using a hand ratchet, how do you know when you have reached that level of torque?

 

Torque wrench, maybe?

 

Sorry to sound stupid but Im new to all this. Is that the same as a snap on tool? so would 25 turns be what you would do to torque something down to 25?

 

A torque wrench is a tool that tells you when the proper amount of foot pounds have been archived. Some look like a ratchet and make a “click” sound when you have reached your settings. Some have a needle gauge that give the same indication but are generally not as accurate. Here is a picture of one. They range in price from $20 to $140.



No, 25 turns does not mean 25 foot pounds! You'll strip the threads!

 

Take it to the dealer or oil change outfit. Cheaper than a good torque wrench.

 

Hellbound(I certainly hope not) Northern Tools or Harbor Freight will ship you a torque wrench at a decent price. I think a beam type is less likely to get out of order than a clicker.Run the fastener down snug, then finish the tightening with your torque wrench. Most professionals will torque main bearing caps, rod caps, flywheels and converters and pressure plates. Most ''general'' fasteners on a vehicle are tightened by ''feel'', which is developed by years of dissassembly and reassembly. The oil change on your JK is very easy,(1) remove your old filter( purchase an oil filter strap wrench if you don't have gorilla wrists LOL. REMEMBER to MAKE SURE the old filter gasket comes off with the filter. Clean the filter mating surface on the engine block with a clean rag. Take your new filter and fill it no more than 40% full with new engine oil. Lube the oil filter gasket lightly with a oil moistened finger. Now tip the filter on it's side and screw it onto the filter adapter until it bottoms out, then turn another 3/4 turn. DON'T overtighten it, you could cause an oil leak. (2) Get a REAL oil drain pan, about 24'' around, 6'' deep with a pour spout on one end. When you find it - it will probably be yellow. ha Looking at the drainpan from the front place it under the oil pan with the front edge of the drainpan a couple of inches forward ( towards you)of the drain hole, leaving as much of the drainpan as possible to the rear of the drainplug. This is because the used oil will push out briskly to the rear upon removal of the plug. Paying CLOSE attention to this step will save a MAJOR cleanup as several guys on this forum will testify to..LOL! Once the draining has stopped clean the plug with your rag and reinstall. A good way to duplicate the torque of your drain plug is to PAY CLOSE ATTENTION when loosing the plug. Without removing the plug RETIGHTEN AND LOOSEN until you duplicate the ''feel'' when you first loosened it. Stop by Advantage auto parts and pick up a magnetic plug. It will prevent any microscopic metal particles from circulating in your engine. (3) Using a correctly sized funnel pour your oil in 1 qt at a time . Remember if it has 6 quarts specified, then USE 6 quarts. Some guys on this forum use 5 quarts ( it falls in the tolerable level on the dip stick). However I believe that Chrysler specifys 6 to assist in the dissipation of engine HEAT. When you check the oil level before startup it will read overful. Start it up and check for leaks then shut it down and recheck, it should be right on the money.
I take a piece of masking tape on the fender edge under the hood and write down the mileage so I know exactly when I changed it....

 

Great write up TINMAN! I'm sure he'll apreciate it!

 

Gorilla hands hey now... I know there was no pun intended but you could have said uhh never mind oh yeah I am also guilty of the not placed far enough back Mess.. gave me a surprise when I plopped the plug out and pooooooofffffff yeah shot out further than I expected. So now to start I hold the pan up a lil behind the plug and then let the oil shoot right in the pan carefully setting it down in the stream of oil not making anymore messes now. but for me I like to use 5 qts. oil and 1qt. Lucas addative. However that is me and I have been doing it ever since my dad has been using Lucas and this was way before I could drive. Good luck changing the oil and always recycle the oil they have drop off points at the local auto stores.

 

Thanks so much for the write up! I will give it a whirl. I was hoping there was a write up somewhere with pics to make sure I don't screw anything up, but it sounds easy enough.

 

If you have a garage to work in, it's nice to staple a sheet of heavy paper on the wall somewhere. I have one tacked up and I write the date, what I did, and the mileage on the paper when I do ANYTHING to the JK. You know then at a glance when you changed oil, air filters, rotated tires, changed diff oil, transfer case oil, etc.. It really is a big help in keeping track of stuff.