Puller Advice
I'm getting ready to finally replace my clock spring and I know that I will need to pull the steering wheel. The dealer did this repair about 4 years ago, so it shouldn't be too bad however, I'd like to add a quality tool to my collection that will also work for tie rod, pitman arm, drag link ect....
Looking for a good recommendation if you are going to have a puller in the collection? They come in a few different sizes too, and I see two jaws and three jaws also. I have a HF a few blocks away, and they sell many items also.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search...C2151&q=puller
Looking for a good recommendation if you are going to have a puller in the collection? They come in a few different sizes too, and I see two jaws and three jaws also. I have a HF a few blocks away, and they sell many items also.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search...C2151&q=puller
I've done just about everything on my jeep and have never had a real need for a puller. I have tried a couple in the past for various things, and they never worked out, which reinforces my idea there's not a big need. The hardest thing I tried a puller on was DL end at the pitman arm.....and I blew up a good puller on that as it was not letting go at all (I tried a couple versions). I ended up having to just use a pickle fork which killed the boot on the DL end. For TREs and the other DL end I've never had an issue just using a BFH and knocking the side of the knuckle or carefullying using the castle nuts on the studs. I think you just save your money on a puller
. Worst case is just borrowing one from auto store on rare occassion.
When I replaced my clock spring I recall getting my steering wheel off was a real bitch, unlike the Extreme Terrain video I was watching where they simply pulled if off by hand. I can't recall how I got mine off in the end, but I do recall that steering wheel wasn't really compatible with the pullers I tried....and I tried a couple steering wheel specific pullers. I think I ended up just rocking it back and forth off the splines, but it was on there pretty good ('11+ style wheel). I replaced clock spring on my wife's Armada the other week and that steering wheel simply lifted off the splines once the bolt was off.
. I bet you don't struggle that much to get your wheel off.
. Worst case is just borrowing one from auto store on rare occassion.When I replaced my clock spring I recall getting my steering wheel off was a real bitch, unlike the Extreme Terrain video I was watching where they simply pulled if off by hand. I can't recall how I got mine off in the end, but I do recall that steering wheel wasn't really compatible with the pullers I tried....and I tried a couple steering wheel specific pullers. I think I ended up just rocking it back and forth off the splines, but it was on there pretty good ('11+ style wheel). I replaced clock spring on my wife's Armada the other week and that steering wheel simply lifted off the splines once the bolt was off.
. I bet you don't struggle that much to get your wheel off.
I can definitely remember having issues with the tie rod ends and drag link ends when I was replacing. I didn't have access to a puller, so I used a pickle fork and ruined the boot also. Had to order new boots from Synergy. Is it safe to spray a bit of penetrating fluid to help the process? I have a feeling it's going to come right off, but I wanted tot be prepared just in case.
Guys you can pull tie rod ends with a 1LB hammer. Simply use a small sledge, or steel of similar mass, at the back of the piece where the taper goes in, place pressure to pull the rod in the direction you need it (EG small scissor jack with a little load for up and a 5 LB weight tied on the rod for down). Hold sledge against the taper hole, tap, tap, tap gently with hammer on opposite side of taper hole and off they come. Leave the nut on a couple of threads. Watched an old old guy do this and he said modern mechanics are mad using forks etc.
Guys you can pull tie rod ends with a 1LB hammer. Simply use a small sledge, or steel of similar mass, at the back of the piece where the taper goes in, place pressure to pull the rod in the direction you need it (EG small scissor jack with a little load for up and a 5 LB weight tied on the rod for down). Hold sledge against the taper hole, tap, tap, tap gently with hammer on opposite side of taper hole and off they come. Leave the nut on a couple of threads. Watched an old old guy do this and he said modern mechanics are mad using forks etc.









