Pvc replacement
Replaced my PVC valve after about an hour of prying and pulling. That bugger was REALY tight ! I put the new one in. No matter how hard I push, it does not seem to go in as far as the old one. I tried using a socket on it and tapping but it won't go in any more. Should I pound it in or should it be ok ? It seems tight. Thanks in advance !
Replaced my PVC valve after about an hour of prying and pulling. That bugger was REALY tight ! I put the new one in. No matter how hard I push, it does not seem to go in as far as the old one. I tried using a socket on it and tapping but it won't go in any more. Should I pound it in or should it be ok ? It seems tight. Thanks in advance !
The zip tie works for me most of the time. My other favorite is to put a bolt in the top neck, squeeze vice grips on the neck of the valve, and pry the vice grips up with a long screw driver.
Thanks, I checked out those threads after struggling. I ended up putting a block of wood on the manifold and using leverage with a pair of channel locks. Looks like getting it properly seated is a pain also.
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Success
Today I ran the engine to warm it up, a squirt of wd40, two taps of a hammer over the socket PVC popped right in. !!!!!! I'm thinking that a warm engine may make removal a little easier .
Today I ran the engine to warm it up, a squirt of wd40, two taps of a hammer over the socket PVC popped right in. !!!!!! I'm thinking that a warm engine may make removal a little easier .
I forgot to mention that we were using a heat gun. Note to Mark: Warm engine next time!
Mine took a lot of work to pull and install. Ended up calling a very big friend and using a long pole as a pry bar. To install, also used a socket and had to pound so hard feared I'd break the valve cover. It finally went down as far as the one I removed. It must be seated properly or it will leak. <img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=541849"/>






