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Question about building a 2013

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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 05:23 AM
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Default Question about building a 2013

I'm thinking about trading my 2010 JKUR for a 2013 JKUR but haven't found what I want locally so I'm thinking about building one. I've never done this before and am wondering how much difference in pricing is there when building the same vehicle at different dealerships.
Any of you have much luck shopping around a build? Did you see much difference in price?
Thanks
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 05:29 AM
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I have one a commando green JKUR on order. I got 1% under invoice. I think it stickered for 42k and I got it for 37.5k or somewhere around that. I don't have the paperwork with me at the moment.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 05:29 AM
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I received mine about two weeks ago... The price for a build is the same as one on the lot. They won't do a whole lot of dealing on a build because they aren't trying to move it off the lot but you can still do the tread lightly thing for 1% below invoice like I did...
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 07:21 AM
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There is no difference between building a Jeep and buying one off the lot. The best way to get a good price is to email all your local dealerships with the exact Jeep that you want built. When they give you a quote, take the lowest and ask the other dealers if they are willing to beat that price. Keep going until you get the lowest price you can. Every dealer is willing to deal. Just becuase it is a 2013 doesn't mean that they are not willing to deal. Are you going to get a deal like you would on a 2012? Probably not. But the economy sucks and they are all trying to move vehicles.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 05:43 PM
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Usually getting a tight deal on a new one isn't the problem, it's getting the best trade value that gets sticky. I've ended up selling my last two privately. Don't forget too, that the warranty and finance charges are also points of negotiation. I used to work as a finance guy back in the day, and the manager would sell the car cheap just to get the customer in the finance office. "Rust and Dust" and "Croak and Choke" were the rust protection and scotch guard and then credit life and disability. All are profit centers. I don't know that the dealers still employ those after market areas, but it still goes to say that the dealin aint done til ur down the road.... Good luck and keep ur cards close to ur vest
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by S_wall98
I'm thinking about trading my 2010 JKUR for a 2013 JKUR but haven't found what I want locally so I'm thinking about building one. I've never done this before and am wondering how much difference in pricing is there when building the same vehicle at different dealerships.
Any of you have much luck shopping around a build? Did you see much difference in price?
Thanks
I got $2000 factory rebait applied and another $1650 off from the dealer. It was 3.5% over invoice. Rubicon loaded with 4.11 gears without NAV. I even ordered color matched top and fenders. $37,250. I presold a car and snowmobile that the dealer took in on a trade so I saved that much in tax. I have the tow bar and convienience package. Everything but the NAV. The 2012 had a $3000 rebate and the 2013 had a $2000 rebait.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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You should still get the rebate but not likely to get any extra money from the dealer. That's about it around here. Get them to sweeten the deal with a tow package or something like that. Good luck.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 04:41 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys.
The biggest problem for me is the lack of high volume dealers around here. I'm sending the build to several dealers within a couple hours and we'll go from there. Thanks for the advice.
I couldn't find anything on the rebate and the first dealer didn't mention anything when I asked about rebates but we'll see.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 06:58 AM
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If you're spending $30-40k on a Jeep, make sure it has EXACTLY what you want. The price will be the same if you find one on the lot or build it. Be careful if you build one online then submit the specs to the dealer to order. The Jeep website did not agree with mine or my brothers orders. Fortunately I caught mine before it was confirmed but my brother had 3.73s installed on his Rubicon instead of the 4.10s he had spec-ed out online. Now he has to spend $1500 for a regear! Use the "measure twice cut once" theory! Plus the build sheet will say it was built just for "your name here"! Awesome little memento.

Last edited by Tripletsi; Oct 1, 2012 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by S_wall98
Thanks for the replies guys.
The biggest problem for me is the lack of high volume dealers around here. I'm sending the build to several dealers within a couple hours and we'll go from there. Thanks for the advice.
I couldn't find anything on the rebate and the first dealer didn't mention anything when I asked about rebates but we'll see.
In my experience you are better off working with dealerships that offer internet pricing. Secondly, if there are credit unions in your area they often have the best rate and terms. You may have to qualify and join the CU but it can be worth it. Ally is offering 0% but only for 36 months. No rebates on Rubicons from Jeep. Finally, it is almost always better to sell your car privately, if you are willing to go through the hassle. Dealers have to detail your car, floor it and make a profit- all of which you pocket if you sell yourself (less your own detailing). Never negotiate the new car and your trade together. Negotiate the new car first and get their best deal. Then see what they will give you for your trade. Good luck.
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