Rear axle won't unlock???
04-21-2014, 05:19 AM
#21
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I'd be surprised if mismanagement of the switches is the cause of the OP's problem.
He says the rear stays locked no matter what range the t-case is in.
Axle lock will disengage if the vehicle is taken out of 4L
(Low) range, or the ignition switch is turned to the OFF
position.
He says the rear stays locked no matter what range the t-case is in.
Axle lock will disengage if the vehicle is taken out of 4L
(Low) range, or the ignition switch is turned to the OFF
position.
04-21-2014, 05:21 AM
#22
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Guess I read that wrong and assumed it meant I had to pull it apart. So I can get to the lock plate w/o pulling completely taking it apart?
04-21-2014, 05:32 AM
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04-21-2014, 07:24 AM
#24
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All you have to remove to do it is the fill plug. (Remember to put it back in, too.) Don't worry if some oil comes out. They are usually overfilled from the factory.
If you can make it to the dealer without making sharp turns, and it's not too far, don't worry about unlocking the axle.
My recommendation is to unlock it if the prying works, then have the dealer lock it when you get there, and have them try to unlock it with the switch.
Last edited by ronjenx; 04-23-2014 at 02:56 PM. Reason: spelling
04-21-2014, 07:39 AM
#25
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The battery tip that guy is giving you is legit though I'm not sure it's gonna solve your problem if letting it sit disconnected for a few mins didn't. I would do the manual disengage as recommended by ronjenx, won't take 10 mins to pop the plug out and slide a screw driver in and put the plug back
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04-21-2014, 12:42 PM
#26
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The picture shows the cover off so you can clearly see the thin plate that needs prying over.
All you have to remove to do it is the fill plug. (Remenber to put it back in, too.) Don't worry if some oil comes out. They are usually overfilled from the factory.
If you can make it to the dealer without making sharp turns, and it's not too far, don't worry about unlocking the axle.
My recommendation is to unlock it if the prying works, then have the dealer lock it when you get there, and have them try to unlock it with the switch.
All you have to remove to do it is the fill plug. (Remenber to put it back in, too.) Don't worry if some oil comes out. They are usually overfilled from the factory.
If you can make it to the dealer without making sharp turns, and it's not too far, don't worry about unlocking the axle.
My recommendation is to unlock it if the prying works, then have the dealer lock it when you get there, and have them try to unlock it with the switch.
04-21-2014, 06:45 PM
#27
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So the dealer needs to keep it for a day to work it, problem is I can't do that until Monday, axle is still locked. Are there any potential issues if I go in and try to pry it as you said? I am kinda iffy about it but am really not stoked on having to drive it for 5 days like this... Thanks for the help.
Last edited by ronjenx; 04-21-2014 at 07:19 PM.
05-04-2014, 01:56 PM
#28
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Update. So the dealer said it was a sensor and switch. So I picked it up today , dealer closed, drive away and still feels chirpy and jarring in tight turns, it's no where near as bad as it was but it's still doing it. Anyone think It may be my tires getting back from the locked axle? How can I tell if it is still locked, jacked one side and try to spin? Is it possible for it to be "a little locked"??
05-04-2014, 02:37 PM
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With all our computerized cars, trucks, and jeeps; tin is a good try on all things electronic. Capacitors and chips store things and a pos and neg cross is good at clearing them out and call it a hard reset. Like taking the battery out of you cell phone etc... Won't hurt anything, just don't have the battery hooked up.
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