The proper wheel torque is 95 ft lbs (130 N•m) as per page 501 in the owners manual.

 

I torque to 110Lbs, I've seen some other forums say 90 or 110. I have aftermarket wheels and lug nuts with 33" tires if I had factory I'd do 90 or 100.

One of the biggest issues I see is people not knowing the proper procedures to torquing wheels. I rotate and balance my own tires every other oil change (8k miles) and this is the proper procedures

1. Run all lug nuts down flush, do not tighten just snug (star pattern)
2. Lower truck down just enough to kiss the pavement so when torquing wheel doesn't spin
3. Torque in star pattern ( always retorque each lug a second time just for peace of mind)
4. Lower truck on ground completely and open up a Beer and tell the wife to put the tools and jack stands away. Maybe that's a fantasy but the Beer is still more realistic lol

 

I don't know if this is the same for jeeps or not, but on other vehicles I've had this has been the case: the angle at the end of the lug nut that tightens into the rim is different between after market lugs and factory ones. The receiving hole on the rim is tapered to be a match, so after market lugs on a stock rim is bad and visa versa. Here is a highly detailed picture to help explain what I mean visually:

 

This is a big problem as well I touched on it a little in my first post on page 2, this is common when using aftermarket lugs and Factory wheels. Factory wheels usually have a deeper taper then aftermarket lug nuts good point Duff

 

Thx............

 

Yea u where describing the same thing, which gave me the vision for the picture! Then I couldn't resist drawing and posting it haha

 

Old thread, I know..... but this just happened to me. Brand new fuel trophys with about 15 miles on them. Lug nuts just came off. I don't think the shop torqued them down or even did anything more than finger tighten them.