Replaced water pump leaking worse
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 2
From: NB, TX
Replaced water pump leaking worse
I replaced my waterpump because of a small seep at the gasket by the bottom bolt that was leaving pink streaks on my oil pan.
I replaced it Tuesday, have driven about 30 miles and checked it is leaking worse from 3 different spots at the gasket. I scraped the gasket surface clean and torqued to 105 in-lb...
What now?
Should I try to torque the bolts down a little more? Since the gasket it wet does that mean it is already shot?
Bought the pump from Napa and noticed the gasket was a tad skinnier than the stock one. Didn't use any rtv cause the stock gasket didn't appear to have any
I replaced it Tuesday, have driven about 30 miles and checked it is leaking worse from 3 different spots at the gasket. I scraped the gasket surface clean and torqued to 105 in-lb...
What now?
Should I try to torque the bolts down a little more? Since the gasket it wet does that mean it is already shot?
Bought the pump from Napa and noticed the gasket was a tad skinnier than the stock one. Didn't use any rtv cause the stock gasket didn't appear to have any
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 14,800
Likes: 374
From: Midwest City, OK
I find it's a good idea after using a razor blade to scrape off any old gasket material, to lightly dress the block seal surface with 220 grit (or so) emory cloth/sandpaper. Then, use Permatex The Right Stuff on both sides of the new gasket. If you reuse the gasket that is on it right now, make certain it is completely dry first. And use the Permatex very thinly--you don't want a glob of it to get pressed into the cooling jacket where it might gum up something when you torque the pump into place. Don't substitute anything for The Right Stuff: Use that--it is expensive, but amazing at sealing and holding the seal.
Oh, you can just pull the water pump without draining anything else. Put a clean bucket directly below the pump, on a plastic sheet to catch any splashes. You'll drain about 1-2 quarts. Replace that into the radiator directly--not into the overflow reservoir unless the radiator won't take any more. Before installing the pump, ensure the surface is dry. Daub out any coolant that might drip in the way. Use brake cleaner to completely clean and dry it off.
Oh, you can just pull the water pump without draining anything else. Put a clean bucket directly below the pump, on a plastic sheet to catch any splashes. You'll drain about 1-2 quarts. Replace that into the radiator directly--not into the overflow reservoir unless the radiator won't take any more. Before installing the pump, ensure the surface is dry. Daub out any coolant that might drip in the way. Use brake cleaner to completely clean and dry it off.
Last edited by Mark Doiron; Sep 27, 2013 at 03:03 AM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,457
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From: B.F.E, MI
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
It won't hurt to check the bolts first check them cold an then again hot. But it's probably gonna need a new gasket mine did the same thing with the cheap gasket that came with the pump I got a new feel pro gasket and put some red grease on right before I put the pump on it swells the gaskets and helps seal Good luck!
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JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Florida
I replaced my waterpump because of a small seep at the gasket by the bottom bolt that was leaving pink streaks on my oil pan.
I replaced it Tuesday, have driven about 30 miles and checked it is leaking worse from 3 different spots at the gasket. I scraped the gasket surface clean and torqued to 105 in-lb...
What now?
Should I try to torque the bolts down a little more? Since the gasket it wet does that mean it is already shot?
Bought the pump from Napa and noticed the gasket was a tad skinnier than the stock one. Didn't use any rtv cause the stock gasket didn't appear to have any
I replaced it Tuesday, have driven about 30 miles and checked it is leaking worse from 3 different spots at the gasket. I scraped the gasket surface clean and torqued to 105 in-lb...
What now?
Should I try to torque the bolts down a little more? Since the gasket it wet does that mean it is already shot?
Bought the pump from Napa and noticed the gasket was a tad skinnier than the stock one. Didn't use any rtv cause the stock gasket didn't appear to have any
mike
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 2
From: NB, TX
I find it's a good idea after using a razor blade to scrape off any old gasket material, to lightly dress the block seal surface with 220 grit (or so) emory cloth/sandpaper. Then, use Permatex The Right Stuff on both sides of the new gasket. And use the Permatex very thinly
Oh, you can just pull the water pump without draining anything else. Put a clean bucket directly below the pump, on a plastic sheet to catch any splashes. You'll drain about 1-2 quarts. Replace that into the radiator directly--not into the overflow reservoir unless the radiator won't take any more. Before installing the pump, ensure the surface is dry. Daub out any coolant that might drip in the way. Use brake cleaner to completely clean and dry it off.
Oh, you can just pull the water pump without draining anything else. Put a clean bucket directly below the pump, on a plastic sheet to catch any splashes. You'll drain about 1-2 quarts. Replace that into the radiator directly--not into the overflow reservoir unless the radiator won't take any more. Before installing the pump, ensure the surface is dry. Daub out any coolant that might drip in the way. Use brake cleaner to completely clean and dry it off.
I have the Blue RTV at home but I'll check out this right stuff when I'm at Napa
Also good to know about just pulling the pump and saving some of that $20/gallon coolant
scratch or gouge sealing surfaces
Did you torque in a "criss cross" pattern?