withay

I decided to do my brakes and rotors in my '12 Wrangler - first time doing them at 52K miles! I've done brakes before. Lots of times. Dad was a mechanic! But...

Long story short - I got the rear wheels off, calipers off - kinda rusty and corroded, one of the slides doesn't slide on both drivers and passenger side. No big deal there. But, I went to remove the rotors... rotors... Sigh. Rotors are f'ing LOCKED on with the parking brake pads, I assume behind a lip. I've been working on the passenger side first. The parking brake handle is down. Not much corrosion, and it will move a little independently of the studs and hub. I removed the parking brake cable from the little dogbone. I can get the rotor to turn freely if it's pushed inward all the way. I got it (with much, much beating and prying) to come out, just a hair past the hub, and it wiggles and moves... And won't come off. I can feel something at the 3:00 position holding it - making it spring back. Did I mention that the little adjustor for the parking brake, that star thing, is also locked up? I managed to get a screw driver behind it and gave the star thing a few love taps, and could barely, but did, tap the rear pad a little. Nope.

If anyone has any suggestions on how to get the rotors off, I'd greatly appreciate it. I don't want to remove the 4 bolts and pull the axle(s) - I didn't plan for it and they're pricey, and I've never done it. I've got both rear wheels to do. I ALSO have the front wheels to do, but I haven't yet pulled the wheels off to look.

Jay2013jk

In my past working on drum brakes, it comes down to keep working on the adjuster, PB Blaster etc.. if you have a large puller (like the big one listed at Harbor Freight

Pittsburgh Automotive Three-Jaw Puller Set, 3 Pc.)

I used it to pull the drums while beating with a dead blow hammer. It pulled the shoes enough to mess up the hold on pins and springs and I got the drums off.. Maybe spray lube in thru the adjuster opening while turning the rotor would assist in getting the drum off the shoes.

icrashbikes

Also if you do end up wrecking the adjuster or other components, they are available as a reasonably priced assembly (I think). I replaced mine once. If your adjusters are as badly locked up as you say, it might be worth replacing those assemblies. In terms of removal, I think Jay pretty much nailed it.

resharp001

Have you tried adjusting via the star wheel on the backside through the little access plug? Even though you removed the e-brake cable, that might buy you a tiny bit of clearance.

doh, nm.....i just saw you said it was seized up.

rob_engineer

I just did the brakes on my 2014 with 63k miles. I used PB blaster and a big effing dead blow hammer. Just kept hitting it all over the place and it came off.

rob_engineer

Question: why are you removing the rotors? If they look in decent shape, no reason to replace them. I removed mine because I was investigating a speed sensor issue.

withay

Got them! I was replacing all my brake pads and rotors, as they were just a bit groovy - and mainly because they came with a kit of pads/rotors my spouse got me, and partly because of the chunks I broke from prying and marks from having beaten the snot out of them in the first place!

Anyway - I went to Harbor Freight and bought the 8" 3-Jaw Gear Puller. I cranked it and cranked it until it's kind of ridiculous how very far out they were and NOT coming off. I'd crank a few times, beat with a sledge hammer, the Gear Puller would fall off, I'd put it back on, crank it a bit further, beat with a... You get the picture. Both rear rotors were removed in this manner. I've attached pics to show how far out the rotor came without letting go. After that pic was taken (and the other side was about the same) it took two or three more crank/beats before it let go.

NOW - I get to fix the caliper slides that were NOT sliding, clean and lube everything, replace the parking brake components (they were both just crusty and beyond movement), and throw it all back together with new hardware, rotors, pads, and lots of grease.

withay

Just a note - I think normally - people drive on the average 12K per year, I think? So being at 52K miles, normally the brakes would have been done at just past the 4 year mark. In MY 2012's case, the weather/salt/water/corrosion has had an extra 4 years to do its thing, and I live in New England - extra salty roads!!

Jay2013jk

Thanks for posting up the success; it was a tough one but you won ! Good luck and lube up the adjusters just in case you get to do this again. Frankly I watch mine closely and have replaced pads with 25% remaining - our state has annual inspections so I get to before the shop says & Ugot2pay.

withay

Thanks... But... Haha funny story... Took the front left wheel off - all looks ok, slides fine, etc. Went to the front right wheel... The last lug nut. Stripped. Then that stupid 19mm aluminum foil (not really) cap broke off, leaving the 18mm nut... Which also stripped. Kill me. Poor Jeep is fighting me every step! To the auto parts store I go today to get an extractor. Sigh.