Originally Posted by Az scooter

Your Statements are contradictory. You don't want them to hit, but you need room. There are a couple of ways to get room. One is to make sure that your bump stops prevent up travel. However, if one side cannot go up all the way, the other side cannot fully extend. Sure, it is only a couple of inches, but you still cannot fully extend.
I understand the desire to have low center of gravity, and it makes a lot of sense, but if you are not able to get full articulation of the suspension, because it is bound up by bump stops on the opposite side, it effects off road performance.
Where I am, we do a lot of rock crawling, because mud is non existent. I am sure that you do, too. There are many places that I could not get over without some lift, or else, you risk destroying parts, and making obstacles unnecessarily difficult. If I want to up the difficulty, I can just go turn off the lockers, and give it a shot, however, making things more difficult is harder on equipment, and makes it more likely to break stuff.
Like I said, opinions can differ. But, I am pretty confident that I am able to get more flex, with a quality lift, than someone can with no lift. You just need to be able to justify the cost vs. the desired results.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

No contradiction in my statement, you need a wider stance to allow for axle rotation not lift. Not sure how you make the comment that you can't fully droop one side unless you fully stuff the other? One has nothing to do with the other. In terms of articulation lift is really not relevant.

Originally Posted by moto1988

i live by Chicago Illinois anyone wana make some money? I don have the tools or balls lol

Originally Posted by Az scooter

If one side goes down, the other must go up. Sure, you could go the wider stance route, and everyone could put 60's on, but most people don't. Most run with the stock 30's or 44's. What you are not compensating for is that if one tire goes down, the other needs to be able to go up. Even your jeep needs to be able to allow for the tires to swing. I guess the argument can be made that you mentioned flat fenders, that kind of proves my point, but I know that with my suspension that I would not achieve full articulation with no lift and flat fenders. I need the extra inches so that the opposite can go as high as possible, so that the opposite side can drop as much as possible. Remember that because of how the suspensions on a relatively stock jeep is designed, for every two inches one side drops, the other side needs to go up an inch. If the control arms were rigid except when they went down it would probably be different. It would also ride horribly, too.

Originally Posted by jtphoto JK

Actually, once one wheel goes up and hits the bumpstop the opposite wheel can still drop as far as the shock length allows as long as your wires and brake line are long enough. The upper side will just pivot against the bumpstop. We do this all the time on the RTI to test our suspensions. Some of our most flexy rigs have no lift and are more stable. The key for max droop is long shocks or coil overs.