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Spark plug installation

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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:13 AM
  #1  
Gannicus's Avatar
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From: Stratford, Ontario
Default Spark plug installation

Hi I've owned my first jeep for 5 months now, best vehicle I've ever owned. The "new" excitement that I have with anything new hasn't worn off, I know what "Jeep thing" means now. It's an 07 JK obviously 3.8L, I'm going to change the spark plugs just wondering what I should be tightening them to. I don't have a torque wrench small enough for this and I've read other forums saying finger tight then 1/2 turn with ratchet, and finger tight then 1/4 turn with ratchet etc... Can anyone tell me what is the right way and if there is anything I should watch out for or any issues? I'm have a moderate mechanical skill level and have changed spark plugs, alternators, starters, rads etc in my old cars but I love this thing and I want to take care of it and fix things the right way. So my question might sound stupid but any info good or bad is appreciated, I'm asking because I've read these 3.8L can be finicky. Thanks.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #2  
inspect-a-home's Avatar
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Welcome to the forum!

So from my experience, changing park plugs can be a major pain in the arse. Lotta guys do it them selves, so I though I'd give it a shot, then this:


https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...napped-251986/
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:43 AM
  #3  
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Welcome to the addiction and JK forum...best place on the net to be for all things JK.

I have no done my plugs as of yet bu my 50 cents:

-check project JK.com for proper tourqe settings.
-I would try and obtain a T-wrench that would fit.
-in the past when changing plugs I have always removed the boot, then used compressed air aroudn the plug to ensure all dirt, rusty flakes, dead bugs are not around the plug area.
-I do recall using a very small bit of anti-seize (other may chime in on this) and always applied a bit of dielectric grease in the boot.

Good luck, happy Jeepin and don't forget to wave!!
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:45 AM
  #4  
Tag's Avatar
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From: Ontario
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You don't need to torque them just use your common sense when tightening them down. Drivers side is easy, the passenger side isnt too bad if you've done plugs before if its your first time it might be a pain. You will need some extensions and you will need a universal joint to do the passenger side. Also don't forget to gap your plugs (the specs are in the manual) and use a copper anti seize on the threads.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #5  
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Thanks for the info Inspectahome. That sounded like a nightmare. My 07 only has 68000km on it what that is in miles I don't know, north of the border here, I don't know if they've ever been changed but it's still lower mileage and just thinking preventative maintenance. When I was working as a diesel mechanic apprentice the no.1 rule was anti seize so I got that covered. But I never knew about the grounding connectivity, I wonder if dialectic grease would do the same thing with better connectivity or if it would burn off or react badly. Not gonna try it somebody can be the guinee pig.lol.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:21 AM
  #6  
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The rear-most plug on the passenger side is the hardest by far - you'll need some extensions and u-joints. I tore the boot trying to get the wire off of that one because it's hard to reach in there with your hand. Use dielectric grease and antisieze to make it easier for next time.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:23 AM
  #7  
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From: Covington, LA
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Originally Posted by Jeff Loughlin
The rear-most plug on the passenger side is the hardest by far - you'll need some extensions and u-joints. I tore the boot trying to get the wire off of that one because it's hard to reach in there with your hand. Use dielectric grease and antisieze to make it easier for next time.
Yup and just a tip: if you pull the pass side fender liner, the plugs are right there and it's easier to get your hand/tools around the plugs.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:32 AM
  #8  
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Another little tip, when installing the new plugs, get yourself a small piece of fuel hose and put it on the end of the spark plug, then guide it into the SP hole and then spin the hose to thread the plug in, once you feel it start to tighten you are good to go to use a socket to snug it down. This method makes it way easier than trying to start it with the SP in the socket and you don't risk the chance of cross threading it.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:45 AM
  #9  
ronjenx's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Gannicus
Thanks for the info Inspectahome. That sounded like a nightmare. My 07 only has 68000km on it what that is in miles I don't know, north of the border here, I don't know if they've ever been changed but it's still lower mileage and just thinking preventative maintenance. When I was working as a diesel mechanic apprentice the no.1 rule was anti seize so I got that covered. But I never knew about the grounding connectivity, I wonder if dialectic grease would do the same thing with better connectivity or if it would burn off or react badly. Not gonna try it somebody can be the guinee pig.lol.
Dielectric grease on the plug threads will not give better connectivity. Dielectric grease is electrically insulating.

I use Champion Spark Plug anti-seize on all my plugs, including people's aircraft spark plugs. It's designed to give good conductivity, and make the plugs easy to remove.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:05 AM
  #10  
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Inspectahome you probably saved me alot of aggravation. I just did the exact same thing you did. Went to take out an old plug wouldn't turn AT ALL!!! Tried some penetrating oil and a 1/2 dr ratchet still wouldn't turn. Then I remembered your story and stopped myself before going for the breaker bar. It's now at the shop in town they're getting them out for me. I've changed spark plugs before but these are IN there. Thanks man this forum is great been on 2 days and already saved me.
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