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Spider gear replacement question

Old Mar 17, 2021 | 07:43 AM
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Default Spider gear replacement question

Just recently picked up a used 07 JKU. When changing the diff fluid, I noticed that the spider gears are pretty chewed up (photo attached). Everything drives fine, but I want to make sure things don't get worse. I plan on pulling the cover next week, and taking a look to make sure that there's no damage to the ring and pinion. If it's just the spider gears that are damaged, can I use any set of spider gears (currently looking at Yukon) for the Dana 44, even if it's for an open carrier? My build sheet leads me to believe that it was originally built with LS, but when doing the test of wheel rotation while jacked they rotate in opposite direction. Am I correct to assume that this means it's either a) an open diff, or b) the LS clutch pack is just completely worn out.

Long story short, I'm looking for the most cost efficient short term solution. I'm currently geared at 4.10, but plan to regear at a later date once I have a better vision for the full build on this jeep (tires, lift, etc.) Hence me wanting to know if Spider gear replacement (if that's the only damaged component) is okay, and if it matters what style (open or LS) of spiders I use. Thanks in advance.

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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 08:21 AM
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You'd have to get a little wider shot but that carrier looks like my open carrier. I bought spiders and ring gear bolts in a kit from Yukon or Spicer, I don't recall which, and the install was just that simple. Ring gear bolts go back on with RED loctite. There's an alternative, ORANGE that's just like red strength wise but without the heat. I'm testing it on my pinion nuts now.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 08:26 AM
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A lot can happen over 13 years, and swapping axles, regearing, changing carriers....it's all a common thing. No clue if that jeep originally had an LSD, but looks like you have an open carrier there. I'm pretty sure this is the part number for the spider gears (for 30-spline shafts) need, but it's on you to confirm you're purchasing the proper thing -

https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YP.../dp/B0078U9GE6

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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
You'd have to get a little wider shot but that carrier looks like my open carrier. I bought spiders and ring gear bolts in a kit from Yukon or Spicer, I don't recall which, and the install was just that simple. Ring gear bolts go back on with RED loctite. There's an alternative, ORANGE that's just like red strength wise but without the heat. I'm testing it on my pinion nuts now.
Karl - you should be able to get those spider gears in there without removing the ring gear I'd think, no?. I'd submit that removing the ring gear opens up the chance you don't get it back on perfectly and that will F up the gear pattern. I have had a situation where I kept getting a jacked up gear pattern when doing a re-gear, and turned out the reason was tiny fleck of red loctite sandwiched between the ring gear and carrier. Learned the lesson that you you put ring gear on and all bolts in, then you remove one bolt at a time to add loctite and get it torqued down.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 09:31 AM
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You would be able to with the exception of the cross pin. It conflicts with the ring gear. I didn't have any issues with mine, but I agree- assemble fully then torque with loctite. I did mine on the HF press to hold the carrier, then set it in the axle (with shafts) and set my torque wrench a pinch lower and verified it was up to par.
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 04:28 PM
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@karls10jk @resharp001 Folks, thanks so much for the info...very, very helpful. I did manage to snap a couple of additional photos the other day when I had the diff cover off, so I've attached them in case they help you get a better idea as to whether it's an open diff or not. If these don't get you the right perspective, I'm planning on taking the cover back off this weekend and can take some additional photos at that time. I really appreciate the input and look forward to seeing what else you have to say!



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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 04:39 PM
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This isn't the best picture, but I know for a fact that this is an open diff as it's my open diff. Your picture looks similar and I don't see any clutch packs in there. I'd be planning for an open diff rebuild which is easy to do. Toughest part is getting the torque on those bolts because it's awkward to try and hold the unit while you're getting a good pull on your wrench.


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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
This isn't the best picture, but I know for a fact that this is an open diff as it's my open diff. Your picture looks similar and I don't see any clutch packs in there. I'd be planning for an open diff rebuild which is easy to do. Toughest part is getting the torque on those bolts because it's awkward to try and hold the unit while you're getting a good pull on your wrench.

thanks! So once I open it up, the absence of clutch packs would be the ultimate confirmation of an open diff, correct? And I should be able to see if those are/are not there without pulling the carrier out?
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 04:48 AM
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Open on left, LSD on right (not my pic) -




I see what Karl was saying about the cross pin now. Looks like the ring gear gets in the way juuuuust enough. I guess every open carrier I have torn apart had the ring gear off already
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 06:09 AM
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Thanks guys! Based on that pic, it definitely looked like the open carrier. I really appreciate the guidance. Will keep you posted as I open it up this weekend!
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