Steering Wheel Vibration
So, i had an oil change and tire rotation last month. I have a fully stock Rubicon Unlimited. The past couple of weeks, I have noticed that when I am going about 60, I get a lot of vibration in my steering wheel. If I take my hands off of the wheel, the vehicle still moves straight, but the wheel will shake left and right. It happens when i am going 55-60, but over 60, it stops. Any ideas?
So, i had an oil change and tire rotation last month. I have a fully stock Rubicon Unlimited. The past couple of weeks, I have noticed that when I am going about 60, I get a lot of vibration in my steering wheel. If I take my hands off of the wheel, the vehicle still moves straight, but the wheel will shake left and right. It happens when i am going 55-60, but over 60, it stops. Any ideas?
Add to the list of suspects:
Ball joints
Bearings
Tie rod ends
Drag link ends
I'm on my 3rd set (soon to be 4th) set of ball joints, 2nd set of bearings, and will be replacing the tie rod and drag link sometime before summer.
Good luck!

Dawn
Ball joints
Bearings
Tie rod ends
Drag link ends
I'm on my 3rd set (soon to be 4th) set of ball joints, 2nd set of bearings, and will be replacing the tie rod and drag link sometime before summer.
Good luck!

Dawn
So, i had an oil change and tire rotation last month. I have a fully stock Rubicon Unlimited. The past couple of weeks, I have noticed that when I am going about 60, I get a lot of vibration in my steering wheel. If I take my hands off of the wheel, the vehicle still moves straight, but the wheel will shake left and right. It happens when i am going 55-60, but over 60, it stops. Any ideas?
I had a similar problem at 45K miles. Slight shimmy at 55-60 with stock Rubi wheels and tires.
Shimmy would go away at higher speeds.
My lower ball joints had about .030" vertical play in them. Upper ball joints were still tight. I suspect a slight imbalance of the front tires/wheels was accentuating the slop in the lower ball joints. Changed all the ball joints and the problem went away...
YMMV
Shimmy would go away at higher speeds.
My lower ball joints had about .030" vertical play in them. Upper ball joints were still tight. I suspect a slight imbalance of the front tires/wheels was accentuating the slop in the lower ball joints. Changed all the ball joints and the problem went away...
YMMV
BTW - tires are Super Swamper SX Tire 32x11.50-15
Cheers
Last edited by coffeebean; Feb 7, 2011 at 06:22 PM.
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Does anyone else have trouble finding a shop to balance aggressive mud tires? I've tried a couple of tire shops and they say they can't be balanced. They put one tire on the machine, said it would take 22 oz of weight and they couldn't put that much on.
BTW - tires are Super Swamper SX Tire 32x11.50-15
Cheers
BTW - tires are Super Swamper SX Tire 32x11.50-15
Cheers

Last edited by kris003; Feb 8, 2011 at 06:08 AM.
Back to OP: Check your tires for any signs of unusual wear--especially cupping/scalping. Also, driving without doors can help because a severely cupped tire can be very noisy--use your ears and perhaps a companion to determine which tire it is. Cupping can cause pretty significant vehicle shake, most noticeable in the steering wheel if on the front axle. It can be caused by a bad shock, and sometimes by failing to rotate the tires (depends on the specific tire/vehicle combo).
If you have a tire that is cupped, replace it with your spare, or rotate it to the rear axle and see if the steering wheel shake turns into a seat-of-the-pants shake. Then check all your shock absorbers, and if you haven't been diligent in rotating your tires, make a promise to be so in the future. Meanwhile, if you can live with the shake on the rear axle, keep that tire there and see if you get lucky and can get more miles out of it. I had this happen (bad shock) and ended up replacing my tires (went from 33s to 35s at the same time).







