I think autocorrect adjusted my post. I was saying to unbolt the stock stabilizer and verify it is offering some resistance in both directions through the full stroke. If you are running high tire psi maybe drop down to the 33-35 psi range and my last thought is if it's flighty over rough surfaces that would point to a shock issue. You could always test drive a new one to compare to.

 

I read the original post again after having read the whole thread. I think the subject drifted a bit.

When I read the first post, I thought, "Yup, that's exactly how I felt when I bought my 2010." The steering is "too light". I've described it more technically as "too much boost and too few turns lock-to-lock".

My 2010 is only 3 turns lock-to-lock and I can run the wheels lock-to-lock standing still on dry pavement with my little finger on the steering wheel.

The steering is too fast (not enough turns) and too twitchy. I've found that if I take one hand off the wheel for any reason, the weight of my other hand (arm) on the wheel starts moving me in that direction. I need to stay alert to keeping the wheel straight. It takes way too little effort to turn the wheel, that's what I mean by twitchy.

I'd like to have 4 turns lock-to-lock and 1/2 the boost on the power steering.

Of course, we all know why Chrysler builds them this way - they can sell a big ole 4-door JK to a little 5' 0", 100 lb girl who can actually control the vehicle. That same little girl could NOT drive my 1957 Willys Station Wagon.

So there you go.

 

Exactly!! Thank you. And that's why I was wondering if an aftermarket steering stabilizer would add more resistance.

 

I had super unstable/flighty steering until I realized the tire pressure and dropped to 34 psi. The dealer had over-inflated them to 40 psi for some reason.

Steering still feels light but it's stable now. Wondering what effect the lift and the heavier tires i'm getting will have.

 

Maybe yours has more boost than mine, I need three fingers to turn. I like the ratio, in my rainier I felt like a truck driver sawing the wheel in parking lots, I felt silly. I will agree that it was easier to correct going down the road though.

 

Um just one thing . Please....please.....please stay off of 275.....696.....96......and m14.....because those are the roads that I drive on and you should park your Jeep before you kill someone.....Oh and please stay the hell out of Livonia...because that is where my wife and daughter drive.

 

Today I installed the Fox 2.0 IFP steering stabilizer and I am happy with the results in that it made the steering stiffer. On the highway test tonight I noticed no pull in either direction.

 

You should really look into AEV's high steer kit that come with an OME steering stabilizer shock. It really seemed to help my "flighty" problem. I originally tired the fox 2.0 stabilizer but after awhile I felt like I was fighting to stay in one lane again. So my vote is for AEV if you wanna be back to changing the radio station and picking your nose.

 

JKs are solid axels with reciprocating ball for steering input, not precise rack and pinion. When off road and your tires go over boulders making the wheels jump from left to right back to left, and if it were rack & pinion , you wouldn't have thumbs on your hands from the violence of the steering wheel. Well maybe your thumbs will stay attached but jammed or broken for sure.

So, castor is correctable with control arms to help with flighty, squirrelly, steering at speed. Lowering psi will help. But our solid axels will never give you that connected to the road slot car feel of a sports car.