Sway Bar Link Metal Sleeve Removal
#1
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Sway Bar Link Metal Sleeve Removal
I have a stock 2018 JK and got some quick disconnect pins for the sway bar end links. I watched a couple YouTube videos on how to install the pins and how to remove the metal sleeve from the end of the link with a couple sockets and a hammer. I absolutely can not get the metal out of the end of the link so the pin will fit. Is this even possible on stock end links?
#2
JK Enthusiast
Unsure of your question and what brand of links you're referring to. Just for giggles, Lets take a look at the Teraflex 4'' adjustable end links, These came to me without the metal sleeve. Teraflex themselves assumed I was going to use these as quick disconnections. But I was looking to use these as a fixed link. This meant that Teraflex needed to forward a set of aluminum sleeves. Once the sleeves arrived, I had to force these sleeves into the rubber bushings. i could not do this without attaching a M12 70mm bolt, washers and a hex nut. These draw the sleeves into the rubber/poly bushing. I suspect that if I was to try and remove these I would damage the poly bushings. So if you're in the same situation, I doubt these sleeve can be removed without some sort of damage.
However, in your case and instead of the sleeves being a two piece like mine, it could be a solid full length piece with a possible round ball in the middle and may not be able to remove.
However, in your case and instead of the sleeves being a two piece like mine, it could be a solid full length piece with a possible round ball in the middle and may not be able to remove.
Last edited by OscarMlke; 01-25-2021 at 02:37 PM.
#3
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Unsure of your question and what brand of links you're referring to. Just for giggles, Lets take a look at the Teraflex 4'' adjustable end links, These came to me without the metal sleeve. Teraflex themselves assumed I was going to use these as quick disconnections. But I was looking to use these as a fixed link. This meant that Teraflex needed to forward a set of aluminum sleeves. Once the sleeves arrived, I had to force these sleeves into the rubber bushings. i could not do this without attaching a M12 70mm bolt, washers and a hex nut. These draw the sleeves into the rubber/poly bushing. I suspect that if I was to try and remove these I would damage the poly bushings. So if you're in the same situation, I doubt these sleeve can be removed without some sort of damage.
However, in your case and instead of the sleeves being a two piece like mine, it could be a solid full length piece with a possible round ball in the middle and may not be able to remove.
However, in your case and instead of the sleeves being a two piece like mine, it could be a solid full length piece with a possible round ball in the middle and may not be able to remove.
#4
JK Enthusiast
One might be able to remove the lower bushing as the rubber bushing could be a 2 piece setup. But the sleeve is a solid full length type that's bene press fitted into the bushings.
Here's a reference image:
https://www.suspension.com/prodimage...iant-01-01.jpg
However, the ends maybe flanged out as to keep them centered on the bushings and actually retain the bushing in place.
If you're just looking to use the stock link as a disconnect, Just remove the lower bolt and flip the link back up onto the sway bar and zip tie.
Here's a reference image:
https://www.suspension.com/prodimage...iant-01-01.jpg
However, the ends maybe flanged out as to keep them centered on the bushings and actually retain the bushing in place.
If you're just looking to use the stock link as a disconnect, Just remove the lower bolt and flip the link back up onto the sway bar and zip tie.
#5
JK Jedi
I'd imagine a shop press would make short worth of that sleeve, but that the OP doesn't have a press otherwise wouldn't be messing with sockets. Might be able to use a ball joint press borrowed from the auto store along with some washers or flatstock. Sometimes can be creative about these things. I think the real problem is you need constant, consistent pressure to get it out sometimes more than quick blunt force.
#6
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You are exactly right, I want to make it a quick disconnect so I can start getting off road.
I did see someone press the sleeve out with a bench vice which I could try. Mostly, I just don't want to damage it in the process of forcing the thing out and make the Jeep undrivable until I could get a replacement part.
I did see someone press the sleeve out with a bench vice which I could try. Mostly, I just don't want to damage it in the process of forcing the thing out and make the Jeep undrivable until I could get a replacement part.
#7
JK Jedi
In all honesty, if you're going to own this jeep a few years and you plan to leave the pavement from time to time, getting a nice set of quick disconnecting links is going to be well worth it the $120 or so. I know it seems like you can achieve the same thing on the cheap with factory links, but the plastic caps in the top joint are crap, just like in all the other factory joints. I know $120 or whatever might seem pricey for what it is, but nice greaseable joints, that are on/off in 30 seconds, are well worth it over the ownership life of the vehicle, and if you take care of them you can sell them if you ever sell the jeep, just keep your factory ones to slap back on. As with a lot of items you might mod, there is a good 2nd hand market.
My JKS quicker disconnects are 7 years old and have been flawless. There are many out there, though up front I'd opt for something that is a greasable bushing rather than a metal rod end like a heim.
My JKS quicker disconnects are 7 years old and have been flawless. There are many out there, though up front I'd opt for something that is a greasable bushing rather than a metal rod end like a heim.
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#8
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In all honesty, if you're going to own this jeep a few years and you plan to leave the pavement from time to time, getting a nice set of quick disconnecting links is going to be well worth it the $120 or so. I know it seems like you can achieve the same thing on the cheap with factory links, but the plastic caps in the top joint are crap, just like in all the other factory joints. I know $120 or whatever might seem pricey for what it is, but nice greaseable joints, that are on/off in 30 seconds, are well worth it over the ownership life of the vehicle, and if you take care of them you can sell them if you ever sell the jeep, just keep your factory ones to slap back on. As with a lot of items you might mod, there is a good 2nd hand market.
#9
JK Jedi
Ah, I see short-term the rub now. If you had a drill press I'd tell you not to worry about a stud at all and just carefully drill a hole through the current bolt to accommodate a pin to hold things in place rather than the nut. It's a bit "dirty", but I've seen it work. For your way, think more about using a ball joint press in the same manner as a vice. It would be easier than a vice cuz of the orientation it's working and the sleeve can fall through an opening.
#10
Super Moderator
It depends on the actual height you get from your 2.5" kit. I had 0-2.5" JKS links and they were fine, maybe a smidge low, but no adverse effects. I bumped to slightly less flat/ squishy coils and it was still in good shape, but I was at the end of good engagement. I bumped to the taller ones and set them a little bit off of the lowest setting.
So yes- JKS can accommodate you, but if you end up with a ton more lift, they may not work as intended.
So yes- JKS can accommodate you, but if you end up with a ton more lift, they may not work as intended.