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Transmission Pan with Drain Plug

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Old 08-30-2017, 07:28 AM
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Default Transmission Pan with Drain Plug

I know many people weld a drain plug in to their factory tranmission pan to make future services easier. I was wondering if anyone has tried using this pan that already has a plug installed.

http://www.carparts.com/details/Jeep...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Should it be concerning to use an inexpensive aftermarket pan like that? Should the factory rubber gasket fit right up to that with no issues? I'm just thinking that would make an easy swap at time of service rather than pulling the old pan and hassling with installing a drain plug in that.

Thoughts?
Old 08-31-2017, 05:36 AM
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It seems like a good idea. I just did the pulling the pan off, draining and replacing the filter. If I had known there was one available with a plug, I would have replaced the OE pan with one while I had things apart.

Although, changing the fluid often is not recommended by many, but probably a good convenience to have none the less. Sorry, I have no personal experience with that pan or other pans with plugs.

It says it's an OE replacement, so the OE gasket should be able to be re-used. I put a Lubelocker gasket on mine since mine came with RTV on my 2009.
Old 08-31-2017, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Rednroll
It seems like a good idea. I just did the pulling the pan off, draining and replacing the filter. If I had known there was one available with a plug, I would have replaced the OE pan with one while I had things apart.

Although, changing the fluid often is not recommended by many, but probably a good convenience to have none the less. Sorry, I have no personal experience with that pan or other pans with plugs.

It says it's an OE replacement, so the OE gasket should be able to be re-used. I put a Lubelocker gasket on mine since mine came with RTV on my 2009.
Did you use a mittyvac or anything to suck as much fluid out the dipstick as possible, or just drop the pan and let the mess happen? Seems like everything I've read says remove rear bolts, loosen middle bolts but leave them in, and remove front bolts, at which time fluid will start leaking out. I'd imagine with RTV on yours it was a bit more of a hassle and maybe you had to knock that pan a bit to separate it and break the seal??

If I could weld I'd just go the route of welding a drain plug in, but for $42, this seems pretty dang convenient for draining at the next service, and I can try to sell my factory pan as a core to someone who wants to weld a drain plug for theirs.
Old 08-31-2017, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Did you use a mittyvac or anything to suck as much fluid out the dipstick as possible, or just drop the pan and let the mess happen? Seems like everything I've read says remove rear bolts, loosen middle bolts but leave them in, and remove front bolts, at which time fluid will start leaking out. I'd imagine with RTV on yours it was a bit more of a hassle and maybe you had to knock that pan a bit to separate it and break the seal??

If I could weld I'd just go the route of welding a drain plug in, but for $42, this seems pretty dang convenient for draining at the next service, and I can try to sell my factory pan as a core to someone who wants to weld a drain plug for theirs.
I subscribe to ChrisFix for DIY how to advise. I did his control spill method removing the cover. Worked like a charm. I did have to use a screw driver to pry the pan off a little due to the RTV.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yb_1wbiPz9g That video is pretty awesome.

He also did a video on FAQs and dispelling the myth of changing your trans fluid often is bad and explains why. It's funny because I was chaging my fluid and a friend stopped over and told me, "You shouldn't change it if there's nothing wrong, because you can damage your trans by changing it." Supposedly some expert trans guy told him that. Chris explains that pretty well in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc

Last edited by Rednroll; 08-31-2017 at 06:38 AM.
Old 08-31-2017, 06:41 PM
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There are trans pan drain plugs for $10 at your auto parte store. Easy to install. Drop plan, drill hole, install plug, put pan back on. I drain mine every 10k miles as each time it only drains 3 qts.
Old 08-31-2017, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by spartan99
There are trans pan drain plugs for $10 at your auto parte store. Easy to install. Drop plan, drill hole, install plug, put pan back on. I drain mine every 10k miles as each time it only drains 3 qts.
But when you can get an entire pan with the plug already installed for $31 as shown, why even bother buying a plug for $10, doing it yourself, and risking the hole you drill isn't going to leak and is in the best drain position? Plus, you get a new pan in the process.

I just found a pan with a plug on Amazon for $36 for the 42RLE. I think I would rather go that route and wish I would have when I had things apart last week.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-265-81...ansmission+pan
Old 08-31-2017, 11:13 PM
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I put the drain plug in the lowest spot in the pan. It's where I remember they were before the auto manufacturers decided they wanted to save $1.50 per vehicle.

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Old 09-01-2017, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
I put the drain plug in the lowest spot in the pan. It's where I remember they were before the auto manufacturers decided they wanted to save $1.50 per vehicle.

Attachment 674543Attachment 674544
Hard to tell from these pics, but I presume that is welded in? I don't feel comfortable just drilling, tapping, and shoving a plug in there. Since I can't weld, it would mean dropping my pan, buying a plug, and then taking it to a welder for the labor, coming home and installing. Taking that in to account is why I say it's worth $40 to have a direct replacement handy for a quick job rather than taking the time and effort to run around.

Rednroll.....I'm a little surprised you didn't go the route of welding in a plug. If I recall, you have have some generally rough welding that would have been good enough.
Old 09-01-2017, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Hard to tell from these pics, but I presume that is welded in? I don't feel comfortable just drilling, tapping, and shoving a plug in there. Since I can't weld, it would mean dropping my pan, buying a plug, and then taking it to a welder for the labor, coming home and installing. Taking that in to account is why I say it's worth $40 to have a direct replacement handy for a quick job rather than taking the time and effort to run around.
Yes, it's welded in. I did this before the plugged pans were available.
I bought a new pan from the dealer for $8, did the plug installation, and it was ready to go when I did the fluid/filter change.

Shortly after I posted the modification, the new dealer pans with no plug went up to around $40.
Old 09-09-2017, 12:53 PM
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Well, tackled this task today. Having to remove/reinstall skids that have seen some rocks adds another level of frustration to the job. I have an AFE y-pipe so at least the exhaust wasn't in the way, but the crossmember still causes some access issues with those rear bolts. It sure helps if you have a small bit driver. I decided to save the money and not worry bout the new pan. Ugh, wish I had just bought it. Draining it I thought was a pain in the rear. Spent more time trying to do a nice clean controlled spill than the rest of the job I think. If you don't have a drain plug, I'd suggest a mittyvac to pull fluid up through the dipstick tube. Glad the job is done.


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