Yet another ABS/BAS ESP light thread.
07-06-2009, 07:14 AM
#1
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Yet another ABS/BAS ESP light thread.
This past weekend I went to a new ORV park that opened near me. There was a rock garden, steep inclines and declines, sand, and some of the nastiest mud I’ve ever encountered. Everything was well until I went to leave. Took it out of 4x4 and as soon as I hit about 20 MPH on the paved road the ABS/BAS and ESP lights came on as well as the light that says that I’m actively loosing traction. I hit the button to turn ESP off so that I could still drive but all the lights stayed on. I made it home and spent hours cleaning underneath the Jeep then read on here that the most common problem is that I bent the Tie-rod which brought the steering wheel off center which mine was but only about 15 deg.
I adjusted the drag like to bring the steering wheel back to center and none of the lights turned off so what is my next step? How sensitive is the computer to the steering wheel; is it possible that I only brought the steering wheel +/- 2 deg and it’s still too far out of limits? How sealed are the sensors that are on each axel; is it possible that I got mud on one of those and messed it up? I attempted to get to the front right sensor but apparently DC never heard of anti-seize and I couldn’t get off that rotor without either destroying it or getting my hands on a puller big enough. Where should my next step be? Thanks - KY
I adjusted the drag like to bring the steering wheel back to center and none of the lights turned off so what is my next step? How sensitive is the computer to the steering wheel; is it possible that I only brought the steering wheel +/- 2 deg and it’s still too far out of limits? How sealed are the sensors that are on each axel; is it possible that I got mud on one of those and messed it up? I attempted to get to the front right sensor but apparently DC never heard of anti-seize and I couldn’t get off that rotor without either destroying it or getting my hands on a puller big enough. Where should my next step be? Thanks - KY
07-06-2009, 07:47 AM
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I’ve thought about taking it into the dealer for this and another issue that I’m having but I’m morbidly afraid that they’ll see the mud that I just couldn’t get to and permanently void my lifetime power train. Am I just over-reacting or is that a valid concern?
04-03-2010, 04:18 PM
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This sounds exactly what happened to my JK, I know yours was covered under warranty mine isn't though. Does anyone know how much this would cost to fix and if it is possible to change it yourself?
04-01-2012, 04:33 AM
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this keeps happening to me to but instead of the traction control light (I turned my esp off so the lights always on) i get my emergency brake light and it only if i spend a decent amount of time spinning the tires in the mud as soon as i crawl out and drive away hammer on the e brake once or twice the lights shut off ?? weird must just be mud plugging up the brakes not sure 
I know when i had this problem on my old ford it was because the wheelbearings were going and I pray thats not the case here jeep wheel bearings are expensive lol
I know when i had this problem on my old ford it was because the wheelbearings were going and I pray thats not the case here jeep wheel bearings are expensive lol
06-19-2012, 10:19 AM
#5
Does Power train lifetime warranty covers that? I just called the dealer and they said "NO". It's only $18 tho...
Completely over reacting.
In your Warranty Booklet it clearly states that failure of factory parts must be directly caused by aftermarket/performance parts or from abuse/racing/etc. to not be covered under warranty. Driving through mud is not abuse.
I was running 35s on a 2.5" lift when my speed sensor was covered under warranty.
Since then, I have had warranty work done on both my rig and my wife's rig. Hers is extremely modified on 37s and mine is significantly modified on 37s.
I doubt they would cover stock driveshaft failure or stock axle shafts on mine because of the 37s. However, 37s would not cause my clutch, transmission, or engine to fail.
In your Warranty Booklet it clearly states that failure of factory parts must be directly caused by aftermarket/performance parts or from abuse/racing/etc. to not be covered under warranty. Driving through mud is not abuse.
I was running 35s on a 2.5" lift when my speed sensor was covered under warranty.
Since then, I have had warranty work done on both my rig and my wife's rig. Hers is extremely modified on 37s and mine is significantly modified on 37s.
I doubt they would cover stock driveshaft failure or stock axle shafts on mine because of the 37s. However, 37s would not cause my clutch, transmission, or engine to fail.
06-19-2012, 10:35 AM
#6
Ive had two instances in my 2012 with the abs/esp lights ciming on. Its a bad sensor and is covered under normal warranty, but i guess not PT. Bith of mine happenes after tire installation, one with my 35 and now with my 37. Both replaced and bavj ro normal
01-24-2013, 09:43 PM
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ABS, ESP, Slip lights ON
I had the same situation; the ABS, ESP, and Slippery Condition Icon come on during a very cold day last week. Because of the weather condition here in the Northwest, I decided to leave this problem to the dealer to find and fix. After three visits to the service garage it is fixed (I think). I am telling you this because I learned a few things…
During my first visit, the auto technician wanted to replace my on-board computer but I insisted that the odds of a processor failing like this is not likely. Instead, they decided that the speed sensor was failing so it was replaced and appeared to be fixed. That cost was about $130. A few days later the three lights came on again. I returned and asked for a different opinion. This time the technician claimed that the sensor pins were making poor contacts so contact gel was applied after they cleaned out the sensor connector. The next morning it failed again. On the third visit, the technician replaced the connector to the speed sensor. This required cutting off a “much corroded” connector and wires and installing a new connector. There was no charge for the last two visits. I am glad they did not change out the computer. Can you imagine the cost to do that?
During my first visit, the auto technician wanted to replace my on-board computer but I insisted that the odds of a processor failing like this is not likely. Instead, they decided that the speed sensor was failing so it was replaced and appeared to be fixed. That cost was about $130. A few days later the three lights came on again. I returned and asked for a different opinion. This time the technician claimed that the sensor pins were making poor contacts so contact gel was applied after they cleaned out the sensor connector. The next morning it failed again. On the third visit, the technician replaced the connector to the speed sensor. This required cutting off a “much corroded” connector and wires and installing a new connector. There was no charge for the last two visits. I am glad they did not change out the computer. Can you imagine the cost to do that?
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03-01-2013, 02:34 AM
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Been reading stories on ABS - Traction Control issues...Why the hell to they put these sensors
in the first place ...We drive off road vehicules... am having issues also...What i don't understand
sometimes irt goes away for 5 - 10 miles then just comes back on...Really wheel sensors - specially
up here with snow and ice this winter that's been crazy...???
in the first place ...We drive off road vehicules... am having issues also...What i don't understand
sometimes irt goes away for 5 - 10 miles then just comes back on...Really wheel sensors - specially
up here with snow and ice this winter that's been crazy...???